Sunday, October 15, 2006




The Perfect Days Team

Kaua’i is one of the best places in the world to experience the gamut of outdoor activities on land, water and in the air. That’s one of the main reasons why Tom Barefoot loves living and working in Hawaii and I try to visit the Aloha State as often as possible, after the special pleasure of living there on and off for several years.


This shared love for Hawaii and Kaua’i is the main reason why Tom and I have teamed up to write Perfect Days in Kaua’i– to make it easier for others to discover and experience its unique attractions and learn to respect its fragile beauty.

One of the most respected pioneers in Hawaii's tour and activity industry, Tom has owned and operated his Maui-based service since 1975. For more than 30 years he has helped tens of thousands of visitors to enjoy Hawaii, first on Maui and then, starting in the 1990s, throughout the Aloha State.

Tom has spent countless hours exploring Hawaii to seek out only the best of Hawaii's activities and adventures. Today Tom’s huge, informative Web site, www.tombarefoot.com, is the most comprehensive activities guide on the Web for visitors to the islands. And Tom’s Web site also is an important part of the content of Perfect Days in Kaua’i.

I first set foot in Hawaii in the late 1950’s as a lowly PFC in the U.S. Army stationed on Oahu. With my wife and a one-year-old child, I lived in a simple beachfront house on stilts in beautiful Mokule’ia, between the plantation town of Waialua and Kaena Point. Before Oahu had highways, I commuted to work daily on two-lane roads through pineapple fields across the island to my job at CINPAC atop Pearl Harbor.

Many years later, I returned again and again to Hawaii as a tourist and then to live on the Big Island and elsewhere in Hawaii. I've written four guidebooks to the islands, most recently Perfect Days on Maui, Lana'i and Moloka'i (available from amazon.com). Each guidebook contained a series of mini-itineraries on each Hawaiian island – the genesis of Perfect Days.

After meeting in the mid-1990s, Tom and I decided to create a series of new travel guides to Hawaii – Perfect Days -- that shows visitors how to combine sightseeing, outdoor and other activities, and dining on Kaua’i and other islands in ways that squeeze the most pleasure and satisfaction out of mornings, afternoons and evenings, including ample time for Hawaiian-style relaxation.

In addition to the content of Perfect Days in Kaua’i, we urge you to refer to descriptions of activities and tours on Kaua’i, Maui, Oahu, the Big Island, Lana’i and Moloka’i in http://www.tombarefoot.com which is updated almost daily by Tom and his staff. Also, updates of this book, including a great many more vacation rental choices, can be found at http://www.perfectdaysinkauai.com.


Tom and I want your comments, suggestions, photos, videos, and "perfect days" that we can post on this blog. In particular, send us photos and videos of your experiences on activities on land and sea, and recommendations on vacation rentals, B&Bs, restaurants and eateries on Kaua'i.




The Garden Island

Beyond even fertile imaginations, the incredible beauty and spirit of Kaua’i truly have to be experienced. Nature – tropical forests, peaks and valleys, spectacular canyons and cliffs, an incredible assortment of large, tiny and hidden beaches, great sunsets and rainbows – makes Kaua’i a unique place on earth even among legendary island escapes. A profusion of local art tries to capture the island’s alluring qualities and spirit and is never satisfied with the results.

In addition to attracting artists and lovers of art, Kaua’i attracts people who want to exercise their senses and bodies, beachcomb on beautiful beaches, trek on foot or horseback on trails winding through rainforests, climb or simply peer down deep canyons, cross a great mountaintop swamp, sail the ocean and explore its marine life and depths, follow Hawaii’s only fresh water rivers and streams, or just enjoy the man-made contours, landscape and challenges of outstanding golf courses.

For visitors who just want to relax and shed their stressful lives, Kaua’i offers countless ways and places to do so on the dry and sunny South Shore and even drier and sunnier West Shore, the busier but still laid-back Coconut Coast along the East Shore, and on the lush, rainier North Shore. In all of these places, hundreds of vacation rentals provide great deals on lodging, with and without breakfast, and the best personalized advice on how to stay busy or relax on Kaua’i.

The northernmost and most ancient of the Hawaiian Islands, Kaua’i is as lush and as arid in parts as any other island. Year-round you’ll find plants in bloom on the “Garden Island.” It’s no accident that three of Hawaii’s National Tropical Gardens are located on Kaua’i. Each one is worth visiting and these remarkable gardens are part of several Perfect Days in Kaua’i.

At the center of the island, 5,148-foot Mount Waialeale receives the most rainfall in the world – an average of 460 inches per year. From Waialeale, a series of ridges covered with plant life radiate out to the sea, separated by valleys, rivers and streams, many cascading over beautiful waterfalls. Exploration of these ridges, waterways, and waterfalls, on foot and bicycle and by kayak, provide some of the most enjoyable parts of Perfect Days in Kaua’i.

The average temperature on Kaua’i is 75 degrees year-round. High and low temperatures vary by less than 10 degrees. Differences in weather conditions in winter and summer, however, prompt different activities. Winter’s northerly trade winds bring swells that pound North Shore beaches around Hanalei while Po’ipu’s beaches are comparatively calm. In the summer, Kona winds bring bigger surf to Po’ipu and the South Shore while the North Shore calms down.

Kaua’i’s 110-mile coastline is as varied as any in Hawaii, fringed by dozens of beautiful beaches, coral reefs, bluffs and high cliffs, river lagoons and bays. Just about every Perfect Day in Kaua’i includes visits to at least one of Kaua’i’s memorable beaches.

All of Kaua’i’s beaches are accessible by car, bicycle and on foot except for the 25-mile long Na Pali coast which is only accessible on foot or from the sea. Na Pali’s little beaches, fronting on deep valleys, are only accessible by hiking from the very end of Hwy. 560 near Ke’e Beach on the North Shore or by inflatable boat or kayak.

Refer to detailed maps on the web at http://www.driveguidemagazines.com that show how to find the best beachcombing beaches and snorkeling sites: on the North Shore, Ke’e Beach, Tunnels, and Princeville’s secluded beaches below the resort’s bluffs; on the East Shore, long and sandy ‘Anini, beautiful Moloa’a, serene Lydgate Park, and lovely Kalapaki in Nawiliwili Bay; on the South Shore, Po’ipu and Maha’ulepu beaches; and on the West Shore, relatively calm Salt Pond Beach and, beyond Waimea Canyon, the longest beach in Hawai’i from Kekaha out to Polihale and the Na Pali Coast.


Perfect Days in Kaua’i

For those of you who have never been to Kaua’i, the island offers some of the best travel experiences anywhere in the world for single persons or couples of all ages and for families. For those of you who already have visited Kaua’i, perhaps even more than once, the island deserves several more chances to show you its hidden charms and attractions in addition to its abundance of exceptional values in vacation rentals.

Perfect Days in Kaua’i start with comfortable lodgings that fit your tastes and pocketbook and enable you to look forward to getting up in the morning and returning at night after a wonderful day. Perfect Days also require satisfying and memorable meals at breakfast, lunch and dinner, including picnic lunches and meals served on cruise ships and during other guided trips on water and land.

All too often visitors to Kaua’i miss many of the most beautiful, peaceful and interesting places to hike and walk, stroll on beaches and through rain forests and gardens, watch waves crash on the shorelines, swim and snorkel, look for special birds, picnic and, not least of all, spend the night and wake up in the morning very near or in the midst of Kaua’i’s scenic attractions.

When we hear the words ‘been there, done that’ referring to Kaua’i (or any of the Hawaiian Islands), we’re ready to respond with a challenge. Perfect Days provides another, very different way to plan your vacation to Kaua’i. Take a quick look at any of the Perfect Days presented in this guide. These Perfect Days provide the best explanation of what Perfect Days is all about and why it differs from other guidebooks.

All of the dozens of beaches along the sunny South or West Coasts or the East Coast from Kapa’a to Kilauea are different and appealing. How do you choose the one that’s right for you and perhaps your family? You snorkel, boogie-board, kayak, swim, surf and, like most people, enjoy walking in the sun (with proper skin protection, of course), picnicking at the beach or elsewhere along a beautiful coastline. If you can spend time at only a few beaches or other scenic coastal or inland spots, which ones are best for the kind of activities that you want to pursue? Which ones really qualify as not to be missed?



At some point, you want to take a cruise or perhaps several different ones -- for relaxation, watching whales or a sunset, sportfishing, snorkeling, diving, or excursions to explore the island of Niihau, Na Pali and other scenic coastlines. Many of these boat trips leave from Port Allen on the West Coast and you want to know how to plan your day to include one of these boat trips, in the morning, afternoon or evening, and how make the best use of the rest of the day.



Perfect Days tries to minimize the number of times you have to get in and out of your rental car, the distance that you have to drive each day and the amount of time you have to spend driving from place to place and, unfortunately, even stuck in traffic jams in paradise.






Perfect Days Travel Philosophy

It’s really easy to have fun on Kaua’i, enjoy great beaches and marine activities, visit the incredible Waimea Canyon and Na Pali coast, eat a marvelous variety of delicious food, and soak in scenic beauty around the clock.

How can it get any better? The pleasures of Kaua’i’s coastlines and interior can be experienced in many ways with very different results. Perfect Days in Kaua’i is designed to help you make lots of decisions, before leaving for Kaua’i and also after arriving, about not only where to go but how, when, where to start, places to snack, eat and relax with refreshments along the way, and suggestions for ending the day with a sense of satisfaction and joy. In other words, Perfect Days in Kaua’i.

Perfect Days provides a different way of looking at travel and travel planning.
It’s not just where to go and what to see or do when you get there, but also what combinations of activities yield the best Kaua’i experiences each day and from day-to-day.

Obviously it’s possible to have literally hundreds of different Perfect Days in Kaua’i. After spending a few days, a week or more on Kaua’i, you’ll be able to create your own version of Perfect Days for friends and family.

Perfect Days is your personal concierge who asks “what would you like to do today” and has dozens of suggestions that fit your special interests:

§ Snorkeling? Beginner or advanced? Lessons? Shoreline or boat trip? Scuba, too?
§ Picnic or sit-down lunch? Indoors or outside? On the beach? Another scenic spot? Great sunset?
§ Hike? Easy or strenuous? Coastline or mountains? Off-the-beaten-track? Guide? Morning, afternoon or all-day? Casual lunch spot? Special cravings for food? Lunch on the trail? Suggested picnic spots?
§ Walk? Short or extended? Inland or along a beach or someplace a bit more adventuresome? Town? Shopping, too? Local art and crafts? Parking?
§ Flower lover? Birdwatcher? Combine with cruise? Kayaking? Hike? Historic and archeological sites?
§ Whalewatching? Combine with cruise? Dinner cruise? More adventuresome? Raft? Kayak?

Here are the very simple elements of what we call the Perfect Days travel philosophy. Most of them should seem like common sense to you. That’s a good start. Think back to trips you’ve taken anywhere in the world, as a student, on a honeymoon or romantic trip, with friends or family, and reflect on these points:

Choice of lodging is crucial, not just a place to lay your head. Depending on your choice of hotel, B&B or other lodgings, the day feels quite different when you wake up in morning and go to sleep at night -- and also during the day and evening as you anticipate what it will feel like returning to your room and waking up the next morning.

Choice of a route and transportation to get to a place or activity may be as important as the destination itself. Drive a different route to and from your vacation destination or perhaps use a different form of transportation one-way or both ways (boat or train vs. car) and the different transportation and its route make the day’s entire excursion feel different. For example:

§ Go snorkeling from shore or alternatively on a boat tour and the snorkeling experience feels very different. Snorkel from a particularly scenic site and bring a picnic lunch along vs. heading to a restaurant for lunch after snorkeling.

§ Walk out your door onto a long, sandy, scenic beach vs. driving to the same beach for a day-trip.

It’s not how many places and sights you see, it’s the uniqueness and quality of the destinations. Spend the morning somewhere seeing several tropical wonders but not at the expense of missing one place that, by itself, would have provided an even more memorable experience.

Each meal should provide a memorable experience. Why eat even one very good but expensive dinner that lacks special distinction when, for the same price or less, you could eat several delicious and distinctively different kinds of meals?

Several of the most scenic places on Kaua’i’s coastline, including some of the most spectacular anywhere in Hawaii, can be visited either on shore or from the water. Each way of seeing these places provides a different experience of the same place.

The time of day makes a big difference. Whenever possible, go everywhere early in the morning for better winds and easier parking.

Vacation Rental Deals & Locations

§ Kaua’i has more than a hundred B&B’s located all over the island in which you can rent rooms for $400-$1000 per week.
§ Kaua’i has more than 500 suites, cottages, bungalows and apartments renting for less than $500 per week and another couple of hundred oceanfront or oceanview units renting for less than $1250 per week.
§ Kaua’i has dozens of marvelous houses in scenic beach or oceanview locations, suitable for honeymoons, romantic vacations, and family vacations or reunions, renting for less than $2000 per week. (See Vacation Rentals in Kaua'i and add your own favorites or comment on your own experiences at any one of the vacation rentals mentioned.)

These vacation rental deals are not rare exceptions. Dozens of vacation rentals that fit your needs are available if you’re willing to spend the time researching, talking to owners or managers, and sending out email inquiries. In any season, you’ll find homes, cottages, and rooms for rent that are clean and attractively decorated, fronting on or located near an excellent beach, managed by pleasant, helpful staff, and offering excellent values at reasonable rates.

The daily rate (total amount paid per day) for a vacation rental can vary considerably depending on:
§ Low season, high season or holiday booking (especially Christmas-New Years but also Easter, Memorial Day, July 4, Labor Day and Thanksgiving);
§ Last-minute or special discount offers including Internet-only discounts;
§ Offer of a night free in return for booking a week or more;
§ Discounts offered for booking a week, several weeks or a month;
§ Cleaning fee (sometimes waived for a longer term booking);
§ Number of people included in the booking (up to maximum capacity).

And don’t forget to add local taxes (11.42%) to vacation rentals when you estimate daily rates.

These vacation rentals are located in the best parts of Kaua’i for Perfect Days of sightseeing, activities and dining:

§ In lush, incredibly lovely Wainiha Valley within minutes of a half dozen of the best and most scenic beaches on Kaua’i for snorkeling, surfing, beachcombing and picnics.

§ Around the beautiful and historic Wailua River, funky Kapa’a Town, the Coconut Coast, on Highway 580 along the mountainside of the Sleeping Giant, up Hwy. 580 past Opaeka’a Falls towards Keahua Arboretum and hiking territory, up Kealia Rd. into the green hinterland toward the Anahola Mountains (a.k.a. Kalalea Mountains or Makaleha Mountains).

§ Around Anahola Bay, Aliomanu Bay, down Moloa’a Road and around scenic Moloa’a Bay, and all over Kilauea Town and around Kilauea Bay.

§ Mauka along Kahiliholo Road and makai down Kahiliholo Road to the river, Kahiliholo Bay and Anini Beach and all over Princeville.

§ All around Hanalei Town and on mauka and makai sides of Highway 560 in Haena.

§ In and around Ma’alo Road (Hwy. 583) that leads to Wailua Falls, quite a few scattered around Lihue and especially overlooking Kalapaki Beach.

§ Around Koloa Town and especially in Po’ipu and Lawai Valley.

§ Out Hwy. 50 all around Kalaheo, west of Koloa and Lawa’i, in Hanapepe and especially in Kekaha west of Waimea.

Within these areas, we recommend that, whenever possible, and especially renting condominium units, rent directly from owners of vacation rentals. Owners usually are prepared to offer and, depending on circumstances, negotiate better deals than property management, real estate and travel companies.

In addition, using a combination of email and toll-free numbers, you can ask vacation rental owners lots of questions about their properties, surroundings and local activities. Also, if they do not appear on the property’s Web site, you can ask for examples of guest recommendations.

PLANNING PERFECT DAYS

Kaua’i’s Vacation Planning Areas

Perfect Days in Kaua’i is divided into four geographic sections of the island: North, East, South and West:

North – Kilauea Town and Princeville to Hanalei, Haena and Ke’e Beach and the Kalalau Trail
East – Lihu’e through Wailua and Kapa’a north to Anahola and Larsen’s Beach (practically to Kilauea Bay)
South – Koloa to Poi’pu and Poi’pu east through the Maha’ulepo Beaches to Ha’ula Beach, and west through Koloa Landing to Kukui’ula Bay east of Spouting Horn and inland to Lawa’i and Kalaheo
West – Hanapepe, Ele’ele and Port Allen to Waimea and Kekaha to Polihale State Park and inland to Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park

Each of these four sections begins with a brief description of the highlights of sightseeing, activities and special experiences. Following these highlights, we provide an alphabetical checklist of specific attractions, activities and experiences which are included in Perfect Days in Kaua’i.

For the purpose of planning your vacation, Kaua’i’s four sections can be grouped into two main vacation planning areas: East and North Shores; and South and West Shores. Of course many visitors will make daytrips between these two areas but each one – East-North and South-West -- deserves at least a week of Perfect Days.

For great beaches, snorkeling, walks along beaches and coastal bluffs, mountain biking and hiking inland, birdwatching, kayaking and surfing, shopping and restaurants in Lihu’e, Kapa’a, Wailua, Kilauea, Princeville and Hanalei, there are more than enough choices in East and North Shores.

The beaches and special attractions of Po’ipu, Lawai, and Koloa Town on the South Shore deserve at least a day trip from the East or North Shore. Waimea Canyon and the trails of Koke’e State Park are a must day-trip for visitors staying on the South Shore or anywhere else on Kaua’i. Hikers who want to take full advantage of Waimea-Koke'e State Park should try to book lodgings in Koke’e Lodge on the mountain, at vacation rentals down below in Kekaha or to the east in Kalaheo in order to cut down on travel time.






If you’re planning to take more than one sailing trip or cruise out of Port Allen, the South Shore or West Shore offer the best base. Staying at a hotel or vacation rental in the Po’ipu Area is better than West Kaua’i in terms of heading north to attractions from Lihue-Nawiliwili to Princeville-Hanalei.

In other words, we suggest that you select and plan your Perfect Days, including the land, sea and air tours and activities that you want to book with Barefoot Hawaii before you decide on lodgings. With the help of Tom Barefoot and his experienced staff, you can customize Perfect Days that fit the part of Kaua’i that you want to use as your base. For example:

§ You’ve never snorkeled before, you want lessons, and prefer these lessons to be near where you’ll be staying.

§ You’ve always wanted to scuba dive but never dared. You can learn to snuba: attached to a 20-foot hose that is connected to an airtank on a raft; dive master and a couple of instructions included; no tank and no hassle.

Both of these water sports, offered by different companies at Lawa’i Beach on the South Shore, can be arranged at discount prices through Barefoot Hawai’i. If you prefer snorkel lessons on the North Shore, they can be scheduled at, for example, Tunnels Beach, west of Hanalei, or at beaches near the Princeville Hotel such as Hideaways. When you master the basics of snorkeling, you can rent equipment and snorkel comfortably at either Lydgate State Park or Po’ipu Beach Park. All of this can be planned and arranged to minimize the amount of driving on Kaua’i and to fit your personalized Perfect Days.

Traffic & Travel-time Realities
Traffic problems and travel-times between destinations on Kaua’i are good reasons for selecting lodgings in conjunction with planning outdoor activities.

A highway (with different numbers) stretches almost around Kaua’i. Distances on these roadways are less important than driving times. Speed limits on the island are slower than on the Mainland -- and strictly enforced (also seat-belts). During commute hours, traffic is heavy in some areas, especially Lihu’e and Wailua. In fact, during commute hours traffic patrols force traffic to drive on the wrong side of the road in these sections, which slows traffic even further.

Thus, when and where you drive during the day becomes an important consideration for planning Perfect Days even in “paradise.” Here are some typical one-way driving times that are very important to Ke’ep in mind as you plan Perfect Days:

§ Lihu’e to Hanalei – 1 hour
§ Lihu’e to Waimea Canyon – 1 hour
§ Princeville to Waimea Canyon – 2 hours
§ Lihu’e to Po’ipu – 30 minutes
§ Princeville to Po’ipu – 75 minutes
§ Kapa’a to Princeville or Hanalei – 30-40 minutes

As a result of these driving times, activities on the West Shore require a long drive from the East and South shores, especially from the North Shore. Likewise, getting to Ke’e Beach and the Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali is a long drive from the South Shore.

Planning activities and lodgings for Perfect Days should account for and, if possible, avoid long round-trip drives. Sometimes, however, it’s just unavoidable.
The most spectacular hikes and walks on Kaua’i are at Kaua’i’s extremities – Waimea Canyon on the West Shore and the Kalalau Trail on the North Shore.

Maps
Perfect Days in Kaua’i includes many easy-to-read maps that can be found at http://www.driveguidemagazines.com. The main attractions in each area and Perfect Days are shown on these maps. We suggest that you download and print these maps and take them with you on your trip to Kaua’i for reference while you drive around. It will make it much easier to find your way while driving or on foot, especially to find access roads to certain beaches, waterfalls and other attractions, and the location of trailheads. As part of the record of your trip, use these maps to make notes on your own Perfect Days and log the locations of your photos.

Personalizing Perfect Days
Perfect Days in Kaua’i will differ for each visitor depending on their special interests and preferences for outdoor activities, history and cultural activities, dining and lodging, crowds and seclusion, exertion and rest, and the like. Perfect Days tries to make it easy for visitors to customize their own Perfect Days into a flexible itinerary for an entire trip. Each Perfect Day combines:

§ Kaua’i’s natural pleasures by land, sea and air – lush mountains, ridges and ravines, waterfalls and rivers, rain forests and flora, splendid marine life, cliffs, beaches and tidepools

§ Kaua’i’s manmade attractions -- trails for hiking, walking, mountain biking, and horseback riding, former sugar and current coffee plantations, museums, shops, towns, resort hotels, golf courses, tennis courts, spas and other features.

Self-guided and Booked Activities
In addition to your own self-guided activities, each one of Kaua’i’s four sections provides wonderful opportunities for activities provided by local activity companies. Perfect Days in Kaua’i can tell you about all of the best activities and tours on the island. Using just one Web site (http://www.tombarefoot.com), one email address, toll-free or local telephone number you can check out and purchase the very best activities either before you arrive in Kaua’i or while you’re there:

§ bike and 4-wheel tours
§ sport fishing charters, sailing trips, whalewatching, dinner and other cruises
§ helicopter tours to the Na Pali coast, Waimea Canyon and other scenic spots
§ snorkeling and diving tours, kayaking, waterskiing and surfing
§ hiking trips and tours of mountains, backroads, canyons, waterfalls, historic sites, and rainforests § horseback, ATV, jeep, motorcycle and hang glider tours of different parts of the islandfeasting on food and entertainment at luaus, and much more.

Examples of Perfect Days

We suggest dozens of different Perfect Days that hopefully will suit everyone’s special interests and require reasonable amounts of driving. These Perfect Days combine: the best beaches for beachcombing, water sports, and secluded getaways; the best viewpoints and Hawaiian natural landscapes; and the tastiest food of all kinds -- local (Hawaiian, Asian, and American), plate lunches for picnics, seafood, shave ice (syrup over shaved ice), international and a few examples of gourmet cooking.

Here are a couple of examples of Perfect Days:

#1 Starting near Lihu’e or Kapa’a --


§ breakfast in Lihu’e at Kukui’s Restaurant at the Marriott or join local folks at Dani’s on Rice Street or at the Tip Top Café on Akahi Street
§ swim or snorkel at Kalapaki beach fronting on the Marriott
§ stay at Kalapaki until lunch or drive out Hwy. 583 to the viewing area (not the hazardous descent to the base) for twin Wailua Falls
§ return to Nawiliwili Harbor in Lihue to have lunch at the Whalers Brewpub right on the Harbor where you can have a “Whale of a Burger” or house fresh fish and enjoy great views over a leisurely lunch
§ after lunch visit the Kaua’i Museum for historical background that will make a trip to nearby Kilohana even more meaningful as you tour the old Wilcox plantation house


§ enjoy a refreshment at Gaylord’s courtyard garden café at Kilohana
§ backtrack to Nawiliwili for a sunset cruise
§ if your lodgings are in Kapa’a or elsewhere in East or North Kaua’i, take Hwy. 56 north for a delicious dinner at Caffé Coco or Coconuts Island Style Grill.

#2 Starting near Po’ipu or Kaleheo –

§ breakfast at the Po’ipu Bay Grill & Bar at the Po’ipu Bay Resort Golf Course or at Joe's On the Green at the Kiahuna Golf Course
§ drive past the Hyatt Regency on the dirt road to the beautiful, long white sands of Gillin’s Beach
§ if the south swell is low, it’s ideal for snorkeling
§ otherwise, take a walk on this lovely beach lined with ironwoods or drive your snorkeling gear (and picnic items) just a short way to Kawailoa Beach
§ after snorkeling, take a short hike (about 15-minutes) over to Ha’ula Beach, surrounded by hills and sand dunes, another secluded, marvelous picnic spot
§ as an alternative to a picnic lunch, enjoy lunch at Brennecke’s overlooking Po’ipu Beach or a burger or other selections from at huge menu at Po’ipu Tropical Burgers In Po’ipu Village

And there’s still plenty of time for a leisurely afternoon drive to the West Shore:

§ browse at shops in Old Koloa Town and see the remains of an old sugar mill
§ On the way west, at the intersection of Koloa Rd. and Hwy. 50, stop at the Hawaiian Trading Post to see the largest display of authentic Ni’ihau shell leis on the island and visit their lovely garden
§ Continue to Kuku’iolono Park to see beautiful Japanese and Hawaiian gardens and a marvelous vista of the South Coast
§ Return to Hwy. 50 and head for the Hanapepe Valley Lookout
§ Just to the west lies charming Hanapepe, an interesting relic of Kaua’i’s past with many art galleries on its dusty main street
§ You’ll be back to your lodgings in time to freshen up and then head for sunset drinks and pupus at the Beach House on Lawa’i Road in Po’ipu
§ As an alternative, stay for dinner on the West Shore at one of several restaurants in the Hanapepe area that serve tasty meals at reasonable prices, including the Hanapepe Café, Grinds Café or Toi’s Thai Kitchen.

#3 Kilauea to Ke’e Beach --

§ Spend the morning at a world-class golf course in the Princeville Resort -- The Prince Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., as challenging as it is beautiful or the Makai Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones, inspired by great views (holes 3-7 on the Lakes Course and holes 6 & 7 on the Ocean Course).

§ For hikers and mountain bikers, the Powerline Trail offers choices of ascending a steep hill from the Kapa’a side or a long, mostly gentle ascent from the Princeville side. Hike or mountain bike the Powerline Trail from the Princeville side for a few miles or all the way to the top of Kualapa Ridge after an early morning swim or snorkeling at the large pool carved into lava known as Queen’s Bath, Pu’u Poa Beach or at nearby Pali Ke Kua (Hideaways) at the Princeville Resort.

§ Birdwatchers can have an excellent breakfast in Kilauea before focusing binoculars on seabirds around Kilauea Lighthouse in the Kilauea Point Wildlife Refuge and, later, at the Hanalei bird view above Hanalei River Valley.

§ With several fantastic beaches within a few miles, Hanalei is an ideal base for shopping, dining, beachcombing, snorkeling, surfing, kayaking, windsurfing, swimming, bird-watching, hiking, botanical and other sightseeing, and more. Enjoy a leisurely breakfast in Hanalei before a trek on the Okolehao Trail to Kaukaopua for a 360-degree view of the North Shore. Head for a delicious lunch in Hanalei Town or pick up a picnic lunch to eat at one of the beaches along Hanalei Bay.

§ Near Ke’e Beach at the end of Hwy. 560, a paradise for snorkelers, lovers of flowers will find Limahuli Tropical Garden, a National Tropical Botanical Garden that provides a botanical education on Hawaiian vegetation.

§ Hikers should leave early in the morning for the Kalalau Trail to cover the two miles from Ke’e Beach to Hanakapi’ai Beach and verdant Hanakapi’ai Valley in order to have sun and warmth for the 2 miles to Hanakapi’ai Falls, a swim and picnic lunch before returning to Ke’e Beach and a sunset cruise around Hanalei Bay.

#4 Nawiliwili Bay to Po’ipu --

Visit the Kaua’i Museum in Lihue and the mid-19th century buildings on Kress Street. Eat local style at the Hanamura Saimin Hut. At the Grove Farm Homestead Museum, tour the George Wilcox Estate and gardens (which requires an advance reservation) and then take a sailing cruise from Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor. Before leaving Nawiliwili, leap back in time 1000 years at a Fish Pond built by the legendary Menehunes. Don’t leave before driving through the remarkable Kaua’i Marriott resort and out to Nawiliwili Jetty for a look at the harbor and Ninini Point Lighthouse. Try to visualize a busy Hawaiian village and its taro patches along the bay.

From Hwy. 50, drive through the Tree Tunnel of eucalyptus trees bordering Hwy. 520 to the sugar mill in the charming shopping emporium of Koloa Town on the way to Po’ipu. On the outskirts of Po’ipu, another former sugar mill, Koloa Mill, sits near hidden Maha’ulepu Beach, site of an epic 13th century battle between the kings of Kaua’i and the Big Island. Beachcombing visitors may find themselves sunning near endangered monk seals. For an extreme but pleasant contrast, take a stroll through the nearby Hyatt Regency Kaua’i and stop for a refreshment on Lima Terrace.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES FOR PERFECT DAYS

For anyone seeking an active vacation, Kaua’i is as close to perfect as anywhere in Hawaii or the world. The average temperature on the island is 75 with relatively little variation. Kaua’i rarely gets hot, just warm enough to be paradise for beach-lovers. You can move from green cliffs and rainforest to arid countryside in an hour or less. In addition to Na Pali, the towering ridges along the north coast, Kaua’i’s 110-mile coast is fringed by scenic bluffs, coral reefs and Hawai’i’s most varied and beautiful assortment of beaches.

Perfect Days in Kaua’i takes you to all of the most beautiful and hidden sand and coral-fringed beaches around Kaua’i and suggests the best ways to enjoy each one in a morning, afternoon or all-day, including our favorite walks, picnic spots, and bicycle rides along shorelines.

The “rainy” windward north shore gets as much as 90 inches of rain mainly in brief storms that leaves gorgeous greenery soaking in eternal tropical sunshine and blooming wildly all year. This same rain and eons of trade winds have carved the island’s volcanic landscape into ridges, valleys and canyons through which flow Hawai’i’s only navigable rivers and streams that seem to create beautiful waterfalls at ever turn.

For people that enjoy hiking and easy walks, Kaua’i’s landscape has been designed by nature to offer some of the most beautiful and Perfect Days in Hawai’i or anywhere. Each Perfect Day takes only a splendid fragment out of this abundance of beauty for beach or mountain walks and hikes, snorkeling, kayaking and other watersports. Each Perfect Day can be customized and extended so that on any Perfect Day you can spend more time, perhaps in a more leisurely manner, on hiking trails, beaches, rivers and streams, enjoying picnic lunches at special viewpoints, on beaches, and otherwise exploring inland and coastal treasures.

Another important reason for making the most of small areas on Kaua’i, rather than dashing around the island, is to cut driving time and increase pleasurable time for activities that you enjoy. For example, from Kapa’a it’s “only” 30 minutes one-way to Hanalei, but that’s at least an hour of driving in a precious day. If possible we try to limit driving on Perfect Days to 40 minutes roundtrip, for example: Princeville on the North Shore to Haena; and Po’ipu on the South Shore to Port Allen or Waimea (where it’s still another hour round-trip up Waimea Canyon to Koke’e State Park).

Watersports

Kaua’i’s 50 miles of beaches are all different and nearly surrounded by fringing reefs. Many of Kaua’i’s beaches are among the most beautiful in Hawai’i, which is saying a lot. That’s the awfully good news. The not so good news is that many of these beaches are not protected in their lovely bays and coves and, because of surf, changing waves, and currents, many are not swimable, especially in the winter.

Eastern and northern beaches are especially dangerous, except in summer. Very few snorkeling sites on Kaua’i are sufficiently protected to be safe in all seasons or even at times during the day. With only a few exceptions, cautions are essential for both swimming and snorkeling on most of Kaua’i’s beaches, even on the North Shore in summer, when the water is calm. Perfect Days in Kaua’i tells you all about these beaches and the best ways to enjoy them in all seasons.



We provide a handy checklist of Kaua’i’s beaches in each section of the island, what to look forward to and where to find the best and safest snorkeling and swimming.

Bring your snorkel gear or you can rent gear inexpensively in many local shops. We also suggest fins (maybe with zip-on booties) because of strong currents and to save your feet and toes from scrapes on coral. And don’t forget to bring or buy quantities of sunscreen, especially if you’re fair-skinned. Have fun – with a friend or buddy (yes, once again, to reduce risk).
Beach Checklists

Beach Checklist: North Shore
[From south to north]

Kahili Quarry Beach -- Good swimming and boogie boarding on the western side and good snorkeling near the Kilauea Stream (but watch out for rip currents)
Secret Beach -- Swim and snorkel on calm summer days
Kalihiwai Beach -- Good swimming and boogie boarding in summer and surfing in winter for experienced surfers only
Anini Beach Park -- Excellent swimming, excellent windsurfing, and good snorkeling
SeaLodge Beach (Kaweonui) -- Excellent snorkeling in calm waters
Queen’s Bath (Queen Emma’s Bath) -- Virtually a swimming pool and excellent snorkeling
Hideaways (Pali Ke Kua) -- (Two beach coves separated by a lava rock.) Excellent snorkeling at both beaches in calm waters
Pu’u Poa Beach -- Good snorkeling in calm waters and excellent surfing in winter off the outer edge of the reef
Black Pot -- OK swimming, surfing and boogie boarding in summer
Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park -- OK boogie boarding and surfing in summer
Kahalahala Beach (north of Lumaha’i) -- Excellent swimming in summer
Lumaha’i Beach -- NEVER swim
Kepuhi Beach -- Good snorkeling
Tunnels Beach (Makua) -- Outstanding snorkeling most of the time
Ha’ena Beach Park – Cannons – Excellent surfing
Ke’e Beach -- Excellent swimming and snorkeling

Beach Checklist: East Shore
[From south to north]

Kalapaki Beach -- Excellent swimming, bodysurfing, boogie boarding and windsurfing
Ninini Beach -- Good snorkeling
Nukoli’i Beach Park -- Good snorkeling in calm waters
Lydgate State Park -- Excellent swimming and snorkeling
Wailua Beach -- Good boogie boarding and surfing
Waipouli Beach Park -- Good swimming behind the breakwater
Kealia Beach -- Good for boogie boarding and experienced surfers
Donkey Beach -- Good surfing
Anahola Beach Park -- Safe near Kahala Point and near Anahola Stream
Aliomanu Beach -- Best at the northern part near Kuaehu Point
Moloa’a Bay -- Swim at beach near end of Moloa’a Road and before Moloa’a Stream
Larsen’s Beach -- Snorkel near the parking end of the beach, not near Pakala Point and Pakala Channel

Beach Checklist: South Shore
[From west to east]

Lawai Beach -- Outstanding snorkeling and snuba
Baby Beach -- Good, safe swimming but littered with lava stones
Koloa Landing -- Excellent scuba
Po’ipu Beach -- Excellent swimming, boogie boarding and snorkeling
Po’ipu Beach Park -- Excellent swimming and snorkeling
Brennecke Beach -- Outstanding boogie boarding
Shipwreck Beach (Keoniloa) -- Good for body surfing, boogie boarding, surfing and windsurfing
Kawailoa Beach -- Excellent windsurfing

Beach Checklist: West Shore
[From east to west]

Salt Pond Beach Park -- Good swimming
Pakala Beach – Infinities -- Excellent for surfing experts (only)
Kekaha Beach Park – long scenic beach, good snorkeling and swimming when VERY calm
Majors Beach – very long beach that includes Barking Sands and Pacific Missile Range Facility, dangerous for water sports, outstanding for sunsets
Polihale State Park -- another outstanding stretch of beach to watch sunsets but not for watersports


Snorkeling

The fringing reef around Kaua’i is longer and more developed than other Hawaiian islands. Beaches from Hanalei to Ke’e are easily accessible. In winter, however, the water is rough and there’s more rainfall. Small, secluded beaches below the cliffs of Princeville require short but pleasant hikes to get to snorkeling sites.

Eastern beaches are exposed to a heavy swell all year that makes their low reefs dangerous for snorkeling except for a few weeks. A man-made breakwater at Lydgate Park and the protection of Kalapaki by Nawiliwili Bay are notable exceptions. The Po’ipu area has the widest assortment of beaches, snorkeling spots, more hours of sun, the greatest variety of lodgings and, in winter, the best snorkeling.

Here are your best choices for Perfect Days of snorkeling on Kaua’i:

§ Protected by an extensive reef, Ke’e Beach’s beautiful little cove, with Mount Makana in the background, is perfect for novices, especially during summer when the surf is low, and also for more experienced snorkelers.
§ At Tunnels, arguably Kaua’i’s best snorkeling spot, outer and inner reefs provide a natural lagoon ideal for snorkeling.
§ Kepuhi has a big reef area to explore.
§ All of Princeville’s small beaches are about 200 feet below the plateau. Queen’s Bath is very special for snorkeling and swimming. Pu’u Poa Beach on Hanalei Bay, near and accessible from Princeville, also offers good snorkeling.
§ In a lush, jungle-like setting, Moloa’a Bay is excellent for snorkeling when calm.
§ For the calmest, safest snorkeling on the island, head for Lydgate Beach Park.
§ Right in front of the Kaua’i Marriott, Kalapaki provides a lovely setting and especially good snorkeling under the bluffs toward Kuki Pt.
§ The area east of Po’ipu between beautiful Kawailoa Beach and Gillin’s Beach has the best snorkeling on Maha’ulepu Beaches.
§ On the western side of the divide (tambolo), snorkel cautiously in protected areas at Po’ipu Beach Park and the Kiahuna-Sheraton Beach.
§ With surprisingly calm waters and lots of fish, Koloa Landing may be the best snorkeling spot on the South Shore. Ho’ai Bay, in front of Prince Kuhio Park and Lawa’i Bay in front of the Beach House run a close second.

Sport fishing & Bottom Fishing

§ Leaving from Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor, take a sport fishing & bottom fishing charter cruise trip along the South Coast and Na Pali Coast.

Rent a Kayak and paddle on:

§ Wailua River
§ Hanalei River and Bay
§ Hule’ia River (and Hule’ia National Wildlife Refuge)
§ Kilauea and Kalihiwai rivers

Rent a Surfboard, Bodyboard or Snorkel Equipment for:

§ Ke’e Beach
§ Tunnels Beach
§ Hideaways Beach
§ Queen’s Bath
§ Secret Beach
§ Moloa’a Bay
§ Lydgate Park
§ Po’ipu Beach


Ocean Kayaking

§ Na Pali Coast (May-Sept. only) and along the Po’ipu-Lawa’i South Coast (Oct.-Apr. only).

Sail or Cruise

§ ketch-rigged sailing yacht at sunset from Port Allen (winter)
§ Hanalei Bay (summer)
§ sunset cruise along the Na Pali Coastline
§ cruise to and snorkel along the Na Pali coast, with beach landing and hiking
§ entire day and evening snorkeling, diving and visiting the island of Ni’ihau
§ morning or afternoon (seasonal) whalewatching tour
§ Na Pali Coast and Ni’ihau in one day, with breakfast, lunch and snorkeling
§ sunset sailings in Kalapaki Bay
§ from Kuku’iula Harbor in Po’ipu, sail along the Po’ipu shore on a catamaran with pupus and drinks
§ snorkel near Po’ipu from a raft

Snuba

§ From Lawa’i Beach take a snuba tour off the South Shore.


Activities on Land

Garden and Botanical Enthusiasts
North Shore
§ Limahuli Tropical Garden

East Shore
§ Smith’s Tropical Gardens on a visit to Wailua State Park
§ Lydgate State Park and its sacred sites of Hawaiian Royalty
§ Fern Grotto
§ ‘Opaeka’a Falls
§ Keahua Arboretum
§ Kuilau Ridge Trail

West Shore
§ Kilohana Plantation Estate gardens
§ Moir Gardens at Kiahuna Plantation
§ Allerton Tropical Garden and Lawa’i Tropical Garden (National Tropical Botanical Garden)
§ Kuku’iolono Park
§ Olu Pua Gardens
§ Kaua’i Coffee Visitor’s Center and Museum
§ Kawaiele Bird Sanctuary (at Majors Bay)
§ Iliau Nature Loop (Waimea Canyon)
§ Koke’e State Park

Birdwatchers and Other Nature Enthusiasts
North Shore
§ Manoa Stream (near Ha’ena Beach Park)

East Shore
§ Kilauea Point Lighthouse and National Wildlife Refuge
§ Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge
§ Smith’s Tropical Gardens and Wailua River
§ Fern Grotto
§ Kuilau Ridge Trail
§ Ho’opi’i Falls (along Kapa’a Stream west of Kealia Beach)

West Shore
§ Koke’e State Park
§ Halemanu-Koke’e Trail
§ Pihea Trail
§ Alaka’i Swamp Trail
§ Nu’alolo Trail
§ Nu’alolo Cliffs Trail
§ Awa-’awapuhi Trail
§ Mohihi-Wai-’alae Trail

Hikers and Mountain Bikers
North Shore
§ Kalalau Trail
§ Okolehao Trail
§ Manoa Stream

East Shore
Three interconnected trails climb up to the summit of Nounou (“Sleeping Giant”) -- Kuamoo-Nounou Trail, East-side Trail, and West-side Trail. All three trails offer pleasant hikes, places to picnic and enjoy the views. Each trail takes no more than a few hours to hike, even with frequent stops to enjoy panoramic views of Makaleha and Wai’ale’ale mountains. However, hiking the East-side Trail to the Summit and returning via the West-side trail requires a second vehicle, is over 7 miles long and, with a leisurely lunch, takes most of the day.

Powerline Trail
For mountain bikers, the Powerline Trail is a half-day trip that, for a Perfect Day, can be combined with other activities anywhere on the eastern or northern coasts. For hikers, with at least an hour at the top of Kualapa Ridge (2128 ft.) and pauses for views of verdant Hanalei Valley and River, and numerous waterfalls, Powerline is an all day activity.

Powerline can be accessed from either the Princeville side or the Wailua side. If you start the 13-mile trail from Keahua Arboretum on the Wailua side, Powerline is a very tough uphill climb for five miles, to Kualapa Ridge, before descending gradually into Hanalei Valley. Deep mud and ruts make it difficult in small sections. Bicycling or hiking from either direction, the main goal is Kualapa Ridge and its marvelous views of Hanalei Valley and Bay and Nounou Mountain (“Sleeping Giant”).
Kuilau Ridge Trail
From Keahua Arboretum, the Kuilau Ridge Trail runs a couple of miles one-way and makes a wonderfully scenic morning bike ride or hike. For visitors that only have time for one hike or bike ride on Kaua’i, Kuilau Ridge Trail is the one. It zigzags through some of the most beautiful terrain and panoramas on the island along a narrow ridge between Kawi and ‘Opaeka’a Streams. For those who want to continue their Perfect Day hiking or bicycling, the Kuilau Trail connects with the Moalepe Trail but the trail gets muddier than it’s worth.

Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park trails are unsurpassed on the island and in Hawai’i for views and tropical foliage and birds, including the Canyon Trail to Waipoo Falls, Kuku’i Trail, the Nu’alolo Trail-Nu’alolo Cliffs-Awa-’awapuhi, the Pihea Trail to Alaka’i Swamp, and others.

Hiking Combined with Sightseeing

Nounou Mountain Trails to the summit of the “Sleeping Giant,” the Powerline Trail to the top of Kualapa Ridge, and the Kuilau Ridge Trail can be combined with visits to sacred and scenic sights along the Wailua River:

§ Lydgate Park, at the mouth of the Wailua River, and the first of seven sacred heiaus up the river;
§ Wailua River State Park’s Poli’ahu Area with its Pohaku Hooanau (Royal Birthstones), ‘Opaeka’a Falls, Kamokila Village, a recreated folk village, and Keahua Arboretum.

More Activities on Land

Rent A Bike

Ride on trails and roads all around Kaua’i or join a guided bicycle tour that heads 12 miles down Waimea Canyon on Koke’e Road and includes continental breakfast at sunrise or for sunset views from Waimea Canyon Lookout, with frequent stops for photos.

Ride a bike on the eastern and northern sides of the island:

§ follow the Powerline Trail
§ upland Kealia to Waipahee Falls
§ a variety of trails from the Keahua Arboretum area, including Kuilau Ridge and Moalepe, into the Wai’ale’ale basin
§ several rides along and from Kealia Beach
§ coastal paths and roads along the Coconut Coast
§ around Nawiliwili Harbor and Ninini Point; exploring the Hanalei Wildlife refuge
§ following roads along Moloa’a and Larsen’s bays

Ride a bike on the western side of the island:

§ around Waimea Town
§ up Menehune Road
§ along Kekaha Beach
§ on roads along the dunes in Polihale State Park
§ on Polihale Ridge, Kaaweiki and Kauhao ridges
§ Halemanu Road in Koke’e State Park
§ Koke’e Trails, especially Kumuwela and Mohihi Camp roads

ATVs

§ ATVs are especially enjoyable for a backcountry riding experience in the Kipu Ranch area of Koloa on 22,000 acres of otherwise inaccessible terrain. For three hours in the morning, you’ll get a guided tour of a beautiful valley, waterfalls, and then enjoy a gourmet lunch.

Horseback Riding

§ a couple of hours horseback riding on 400-acres of Silver Falls Ranch, a working ranch with a waterfall
§ Princeville Ranch along the Kalihiwai Ridge to Kalihiwai waterfalls and mountain pools
§ along the bluffs above ‘Anini Beach, with a snack on the beach

Wailua River Cruise

§ Take a Wailua River Cruise to Fern Grotto from the Wailua Marina State Park.

HOW TO USE PERFECT DAYS IN KAUA’I

Everyone has their own preferred method for planning vacations. Some are more or less organized than others. The method suggested here reflects the authors’ intentions in designing and writing Perfect Days as a resource for planning vacations on Kaua’i.

§ Browse Perfect Days in Kaua’i to find experiences and Perfect Days that appeal to you, any companions or the entire family.

§ Look at Barefoot Hawaii (http://www.tombarefoot.com) for descriptions of ocean, land and air activities that interest you. (Call toll-free at 1-888-222-3601 or email at barefoot@maui.net if you have any questions.)

§ Book Barefoot Hawaii activities for which we recommend advance reservations.

§ Familiarize yourself with maps of each area of Kaua’i in our affiliate’s web site www.driveguidemagazines.com.

§ Print out copies of maps for any area of the island that you plan to visit. (When you arrive at the airport on any island in Hawaii and rent a car at any car rental company you will be able to pick up a copy of the Drive Guide magazine for that island which contains a set of the same online maps covering every area of the island.)

§ While you are visiting the Drive Guide magazine web site, join the Share Aloha Photo Contest.

§ Select Perfect Days and activities that you want to include in your vacation trip to Kaua’i and print copies to take with you.

§ Read reviews of island restaurants & eateries in the Taste of the Islands – Kaua’i section, print out copies, and mark places to eat that fit your tastes and budget.

§ Put it all together – Assemble (1) the maps printed from www.driveguidemagazines.com, (2) copies of the Perfect Days itineraries selected for your vacation, (3) restaurants selected from Taste of the Islands – Kaua’i, and (4) email confirmations of lodgings, car rentals, airplane reservations, and Barefoot Hawaii bookings.






Saturday, October 14, 2006

BAREFOOT TOURS HAWAII

For every visitor to Kaua’i, with every level of fitness and athletic ability, expertise, energy, passion and adventuresome spirit, there’s a suitable choice for a Perfect Day of: walking, hiking, horseback riding, snorkeling, scuba diving, snuba, surfing, boogie boarding, helicopter rides, excursions in one- and two-person kayaks, ocean kayaks, rafts, and a variety of vessels for snorkeling, sailing, whale-watching (Dec-May), dinner cruising and more.

Since Perfect Days in Kaua’i aims to make it easier for you to make satisfying and safe plans for your vacation on Kaua’i, we’re pleased to be able to recommend that you research activities and tours on Kaua’i at http://www.tombarefoot.com. Tom Barefoot (yes, that’s his real name) has spent more than 25 years providing hundreds of thousands of visitors to the Hawaiian islands with the most enjoyable activities and tours.

Tom Barefoot’s activities are part of many Perfect Days. Here are some practical suggestions for selecting activities and tours as part of your own Perfect Days:

§ Use this guide to prepare a rough plan for your Perfect Days in Kaua’i.
§ At the same time, browse through www.tombarefoot.com’s huge (more than 600 pages!) Web site covering the best activities and tours on Kaua’i and Hawai’i’s other islands.
§ Select the activities and tours in Kaua’i that appeal to you, note whether they are morning or afternoon activities, where they depart, and for how long.
§ Bookmark these activities for future reference.
§ As you look at Perfect Days in this guide, you’ll find that all of the activities in www.tombarefoot.com are part of suggested Perfect Days and each of these activities includes a link to this web site.
§ Before leaving for Kaua’i or while you’re on the island, book your choices of activities either online or using the special toll-free number 1-800-621-3601.

Most of your Perfect Days in Kaua’i will be spent on your own walks and hikes, enjoying beautiful beaches, swimming and snorkeling, visiting spas, and shopping in Koloa, Kapa’a, Kilauea, Hanalei and elsewhere on the island. Discovering, exploring and enjoying many of Kaua’i’s best sights and activities on land and sea, however, will require the right transportation, equipment, guides and instructors -- fishing, hiking, horseback riding, seeing remote or inaccessible mountains and valleys by air and land, exploring underwater for marine life, and more.

Perfect Days #1 - #6

Perfect Day #1 - Kipu Ranch and Kawailoa Beach (South Shore)

On the way to Po’ipu, stop for a great expresso or cup of coffee at Java Kai in Kapa’a and design your own omelette across the street at Kountry Kitchen. Breakfast is an excellent choice at the nearby Olympic Café. Traveling on a budget with a hungry family, the huge, inexpensive breakfast at the Wailua Family Restaurant in Kapa’a may be the best choice. If you’re coming from West Kauai, you’re in luck for breakfast at Grinds Café and Expresso or Kalaheo Café & Coffee Company on Hwy. 50 in Kalaheo where you also can pick up a memorable picnic lunch for today's excursion.

Starting at 8am, take a leisurely ATV tour all morning on Kipu Ranch, one of Hawai’i’s most beautiful ranches. Travel on mountain trails, through river valleys, pastures and tropical forests, in the same landscape where Hollywood filmed "Jurassic Park" and "Raiders of the Lost Ark." [Don’t forget to make dinner reservations.]

Afterwards head for beautiful Kawailoa Beach, our favorite among the South Shore’s "hidden" Maha’ulepu Beaches, for a quiet picnic, snorkeling and, when conditions are good, swimming. Excellent dinner choices in every cuisine category on the South Shore are too numerous to mention (see Taste of the Islands). Visit Kiahuna Plantation Resort, for example, and let Chef Brenda Silva-Morando completely spoil you at the Plantation Gardens Restaurant. May we recommend the superb shrimp and wasabi ravioli that brings together local shrimp with rocotta, goat cheese, lemon-grass and kaffir-lime. Otherwise just head for the Po’ipu Shopping Center to check out a handful of excellent restaurants in all price categories that simplify the choice of where to go and what to eat.

Perfect Day #2 - South Shore Bicycling Adventure

Have an early breakfast at Kukui’s Poolside Restaurant at the Marriott Hotel in Lihue where you can freely indulge in the buffet before an all-morning bicycle tour. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/aloha_kauai_tours.html] Learn about Kaua’i’s history and culture as you bike through the Grove Farm Plantation, along scenic roads and byways that you’re not likely to find by yourself.

Afterwards, bike through Puhi to the Tree Tunnel to Koloa and visit an historic sugar mill and this charming village full of interesting shops. Koloa also offers several good places for a break to snack, have lunch or pick up a picnic lunch like Koloa Fish Market, Pizzetta and Tomkat’s Grill. Head down to the untouched Maha’ulepu coastline for a picnic lunch on one of the virtually deserted, beautiful beaches. [Don’t forget to make a dinner reservation.]

In the spirit of the day, plan to have dinner at Gaylord’s Restaurant in historic Kilohana, on the outskirts of Lihue, where you can dine on anything from rack of lamb to fresh Hawaiian seafood in the surroundings of a 1930’s plantation manager’s estate set in a 1700-acre sugar plantation. Come early, visit Kilohana Galleries, shop for handcrafted Hawaiian gifts, and have pupus and refreshments before dinner in the lovely courtyard overlooking green lawns and mountains. As an alternative, get a table on the lanai of the Café Portofino in Lihue and enjoy the restaurant’s Northern Italian specialties while watching the sun set over Kalapaki Bay.

Perfect Day #3 - Ocean and Waimea Canyon Cruising (West Shore)

Coast 12 miles down Waimea Canyon on a sunrise bicycle tour, stopping to take pictures along the way or while you watch the sun set over the island of Ni’ihau. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/outfitters_bike.html] If you’re willing to rise at around 4:30am for the drive to Port Allen in West Kaua’i, board HoloHolo Charters for a memorable 7-hour snorkeling trip to Lehua Island off the north coast of Ni’ihau. A full continental breakfast will be waiting for you on board the catamaran and at mid-day a very welcome gourmet buffet lunch. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/sunset_cruises_kauai.html]

Instead of seeing the sunrise from Waimea Canyon, view the morning sun light up Barking Sands and Polihale Beaches en route to dramatic saw-tooth ridges of the Na Pali coastline etched by deep valleys, waterfalls flowing down them. Accompanied by spinner dolphins, your ship heads for crystal clear waters in Lehua’s crater where you'll snorkel with an abundance of colorful tropical fish around healthy coral. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/napali_explorer.html and http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/lahela_ocean_adventures.html]

After enjoying a buffet lunch, you'll head back across the channel with plenty of time left in the day to visit shops and excellent art galleries in quaint Hanapepe nestled in a lush tropical valley. As an alternative to the morning bike tour, you can bicycle at sunset down Waimea Canyon to Waimea Town. For good food, relaxation and thirst-quenching micro-brews, at the end of your bike ride to Waimea you need go no further than the Waimea Brewing Co. but the Kalaheo Steak House or Wrangler’s Steak House also are good choices for famished bike riders.

Perfect Day #4 - Kaua’i by Air, River and Luau Feast

Board a helicopter at Lihue Airport after breakfast, circle Kalapaki Harbor, fly over Po’ipu and Lawa’i to lush Hanapepe Valley and then above the incredible Waimea Canyon to Alaka’i Swamp, follow the jagged cliffs of Na Pali to the shores of Hanalei Bay and Princeville, and follow a dozen beaches and shoreline of the East Coast through Kapa’a back to Lihu’e. In about an hour, you’ve seen virtually all of Kaua’i’s amazingly diverse landscape.

From Lihu’e Airport drive northward on Hwy. 51 to Hwy. 56 up the coast to Wailua. If you’re in luck, it’s Friday and you can feast on a gourmet lunch in the backyard of Ginger Carlson’s charming Caffè Coco. Otherwise, have lunch out in the open at the Wailua Marina Restaurant with a great view of the Wailua River. Afterwards, take a Wailua River Cruise to the Fern Grotto. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/fern_grotto_kauai.html] [Don’t forget to make reservations for a luau dinner at Smith’s Tropical Paradise.]

If there’s time, visit a couple of unique art galleries and gift shops in Kapa’a. Otherwise, right next door to the Wailua Marina, wend your way through a mile of garden pathways within the 30-acres of Smith’s Tropical Paradise, a botanical wonderland on the Wailua River that offers the best luau on the island. Following the Imu Ceremony, gather with other guests for cocktails, music, conversation and a traditional luau dinner. Entertainment consists of music and dance from virtually the entire Asia Pacific.

Perfect Day #5 - Diving, Beachcombing and Relaxing

Have an ample kine local breakfast at the Eggbert’s in Coconut Marketplace, Dani’s Restaurant or Barbecue Inn in Lihue or Camp House Grill in Kalaheo on Hwy. 50 before checking in at the dive shop in Koloa. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/fathom_five_divers.html] In summer, arrange to dive the incredible walls, lava pillars and enormous caves of Ni’ihau Island. Any time of year, see endangered green sea turtles, unusual volcanic sea formations and an endless stream of colorful tropical fish during one- and two-tank ocean and shore dives.

After diving all morning, you'll be ready for a relaxed, delicious lunch at Bennecks’s Beach Broiler or Joe’s on the Green at the Kiahuna Golf Course followed by an easy afternoon of beachcombing. Explore beaches from Maha’ulepu to Shipwreck Beach in front of Po’ipu’s fabulous Hyatt Regency Kaua’i Resort. Watching surfers, body surfers, windsurfers and boogie boarders, you may decide to take surfing lessons the next day at the Kaua’i Surf School in Po’ipu. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/Kaua’i_surfing_school.html] [Don’t forget to make reservations for dinner.]

But on this Perfect Day you may be content to stroll around the Hyatt’s lush, exotic grounds, dip in the saltwater lagoon (without waves!), and end up relaxing in the Hyatt’s Seaview Terrace Lounge, have a drink and pupus, mesmerized by the waterfall down below. If you want a romantic evening, book ahead at the Hyatt’s Tidepools restaurant and request a table next to the freshwater lagoon lighted by flickering tiki torches. Comparable fine dining alternatives include Casablanca at Kiahuna, Beach House Restaurant or the more casual Poipu Bay Grill & Bar.

Perfect Day #6 - Kayaking, Kaua’i Art & Crafts and Dinner

Several of Kaua’i’s most beautiful freshwater areas are accessible only by boat, including Wailua State Park and Fern Grotto, Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Hule’ia Stream and the Menehune Fish Pond. Even non-swimmers can take an unforgettable kayak trip into the Hulei National Wildlife Refuge on Hulei Stream, including a 1½ -mile hike through verdant tropical rain forest to waterfall pools for a picnic lunch in one of the last habitats of endangered bird species on Kaua’i. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/kauai_kayaks_surfing.html and http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/outfitters_kayak.html]

After this memorable kayaking excursion, visit the Kaua’i Museum on Rice Street, in Lihue, to see the permanent collection of Hawaiian artifacts, photo exhibits and art and crafts of some of the best artists on the island. For more artists and exceptional hand-crafted gifts, don’t miss the Kaua’i Products Store in Lihu'e's Kukui Grove Shopping Center. At least half of the artists and local crafts people of Kaua’i exhibit and sell their products in this store from time to time. (Taste a sample of the store's famous macadamia nut fudge).

End the day and evening with a special dinner near your lodgings. For a memorable splurge dinner, make a reservation the day before or earlier in the day at The Bull Shed, Hukilau Lanai or Coconuts Island Style Grill & Bar, Lemongrass Grill & Seafood in Kapa’a or at The Lighthouse Bistro Kilauea.

Friday, October 13, 2006

PERFECT DAYS -- NORTH KAUA’I

The North Shore of Kaua’i offers something special and enjoyable for everybody -- mauka (toward lush green mountains) or makai (toward the sea, superb beaches, and awesome shorelines and cliffs). We start exploring and planning Perfect Days on the North Shore at the former plantation town of Kilauea. In the vicinity you’ll find a wonderful variety of “Secret,” “hidden” and other scenic beaches around Kilauea north to the cliffs of Princeville and the edge of Hanalei Bay.

Each Perfect Day tries to squeeze as much as possible out of Kaua’i’s North Shore, mainly its beaches and shoreline, but also short walks or longer hikes on the Powerline Trail above Hanalei Valley and the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge and the Okolehao Trail that rises above the other (north) of Hanalei Valley. When you extend these short walks into hikes, of course the trails become more difficult and strenuous. It’s your choice, but almost everyone can walk the beginning of these trails and enjoy wonderful views without hiking all the way to “summits” at Kualapa Ridge or Kaukaopua Peak.

Of course any suggested Perfect Day can be stretched into several days or possibly even condensed into a couple of hours. For example, the lovely coastline and beaches that connect Kilauea, its picture-postcard Kilauea Lighthouse, and the fabled Princeville Resort can be visited in a day, if you’re really in a hurry, or provide several Perfect Days or as much as a glorious week. Perfect Day’s include several long beach walks – on Secret Beach, Anini Beach and Hanalei Bay.

If you have the time, we suggest spending as many as seven Perfect Days on Kaua’i’s North Shore. More adventuresome visitors will include a day on the Kalalau Trail or possibly another day on a guided 15-mile sea kayak trip along the Na Pali Coast. [See http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/outfitters_kayak.html]

Highlights

Kilauea. Just past mile-marker 23, Kilauea Town is best known for its lighthouse surrounded by a seabird sanctuary, the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, and the nearby Kong Lung Company, Kaua’i’s oldest general store (1892), and today one of Hawai’i’s most attractive art and gift emporiums. Perhaps less well known are the scenic delights of surrounding hills, cliffs, bays and coves that attracted homes by Bette Midler and Sylvester Stallone, the charm of Kilauea itself and the town’s excellent restaurants, bakery and pizza shop. Add to this already wonderful mix the presence of many excellent vacation rentals in all price categories.


It won’t take long for you to realize that Kilauea and its environs is one of our favorite destinations on Kaua’i and in Hawai’i. Best known for Kilauea Lighthouse and the Refuge, also enjoy less well-known pleasures such as a self-guided or guided walk up Crater Hill, a trail to Kilauea Bay and its Kahili Beach, where boogie boarding often is excellent, and a mile-long kayak trip up Kilauea Stream. Cyclists can ride on the trail to Kilauea Bay, up Crater hill, around Kilauea, and inland through jungle and fruit growing lands.

Kilauea – Princeville. The Lighthouse stands on a bluff between two beaches – Secret Beach, that runs for two miles from Kilauea Point, and Kahili’s mile of sand along Kilauea Bay. No longer a Secret, the trail down to Secret Beach is easy to find. Further north, two roads head for Kalihiwai Bay's beaches that are safe for boogie boarders, surfers and snorkelers. Kayakers can paddle up Kalihiwai Stream under the highway to reach Kalihiwai Falls. Around the point from Kalihiwai Bay, Anini Beach has the longest coral reef in Hawaii, excellent snorkeling and windsurfing, scenery and shade to enjoy on picnics, and the start of a bike ride up to Princeville Resort.

Princeville’s Beaches. Above Anini, Princeville Bluff is the backdrop for exploring some overlooked destinations for snorkelers and beach lovers willing to hike down these bluffs to find several wonderful hidden beaches – Wyllie’s, Kaweonui Beach (SeaLodge), Hideaway’s (Pali Ke Kua Beach), Pu’u Poa Beach (not really hidden since it’s below the hotel) -- and black-rock tidepools at Queen Emma’s Baths.

Kalalau Trail. It only takes a half -mile of hiking up Kalalau Trail from Ke’e Beach to experience a spectacular viewpoint of Ke’e Beach and the Na Pali Coast. It’s your choice to continue on the Kalalau Trail to reach Hanakapi’ai Beach (4 miles roundtrip) and the Hanakap’ai Valley Trail to the dramatic spectacle of 100-foot Hanakap’ai Falls (8 miles roundtrip). Experiencing this awesome sight, however, will take at least six hours of hiking.

Powerline Trail. Across the road from Princeville Resort, the northerly entrance to the Powerline Trail leads to either just a short walk or a memorable trans-island hiking or mountain-biking journey up to Kualapa Ridge at a 2,000-foot elevation and scenic views of Hanalei Valley, North and East shores. Even a relatively short hike on Powerline leads to views of magnificent falls.

For mountain bikers, the Powerline Trail is a half-day trip that, for a Perfect Day, can be combined with other activities anywhere on the eastern or northern coasts. For hikers, spending at least an hour at the top of Kualapa Ridge (2128 ft.) and pausing often along the way up and down for views of mountains, the verdant Hanalei Valley and numerous waterfalls, the Powerline Trail is an all day activity.

Powerline also is very special because it is the only inland connection between the North Shore and East Shore. Powerline can be accessed from either the Princeville side or the Wailua side. If you start the 13-mile trail from Wailua, Powerline is a very tough uphill climb for five miles, to Kualapa Ridge, before descending gradually into the Hanalei Valley. Deep mud and ruts make it difficult to impossible in small sections for mountain bikers. Bicycling or hiking from either direction, the main goal is Kualapa Ridge and its marvelous views of Hanalei Valley and Bay, and Nounou Mountain (“Sleeping Giant”).

Hanalei Town and Bay. Hwy. 56 turning down to Hanalei Bay from Princeville extends to beautiful Haena, Ke’e Beach and the Kalalau Trail. Hanalei Bay and Hanalei Town are one big playground at any time of day for visitors who want to walk, cycle, snorkel, shop, enjoy delicious food, watch a sunset from the Hanalei Pier or just hang out. From Hanalei’s popular Black Pot Beach near the Hanalei Pier, Hanalei Bay offers a series of beaches near town for a stroll, picnic or dip.

Exploring Rivers and Valleys. Steep Okolehao Trail leads up the Hanalei River through a bamboo forest about 1,200-feet up to a peak called Kaulaopua, the best view of Hanalei and picnic spot on the North Shore. This 5-mile trip and its breathtaking views of North and East coastlines and mountains takes about 3-4 hours roundtrip.

Wainiha Valley. Several scenic river valleys – the Hanalei, Lumaha’i, and the Wainiha – extend across Hwy. 56 through lush hinterlands to the foothills. These rivers and their valleys attract kayakers as well as hikers. Wainiha Valley has some of the best vacation rentals on Kaua’i. Past glorious Lumaha’i Beach, the magical paradise of South Pacific, reef-protected Tunnels Beach attracts snorkelers, surfers ride the reef break at Cannons Beach, and everyone enjoys watersports at Ke’e Beach, located at road’s end on the North Shore.

Checklist

Anini Beach – longest coral reef in the islands, Kaua’i’s best windsurfing, safe kayaking, good swimming, tidepools and coves, miles of cycling, pleasant surfing, public park facilities, and shade for picnics
Black Pot Beach – surfers ride the break, swimming good in calm conditions, and kayak access to Hanalei River
Blue Room – a chamber, accessible only by swimming, located in the upper wet cave near Ha’ena where light filtered through the water turns everything blue
Cannons Beach – great surfing but mainly for experienced surfers and snorkelers
Christ Memorial Episcopal Church – in Kilauea, built of lava rock with stained glass windows
Crater Hill – great views of the coast and bird sanctuary from a few hundred feet above Kilauea Lighthouse
Dry Cave, Maniniholo – across the street from Ha’ena Beach Park, said to be dug by Menehune fishermen looking for supernatural beasts stealing their fish
Fort Alexander – beautiful sunset views of Hanalei Bay from the rim of Princeville
Guava Kai Plantation – on Kuawa Road off Hwy. 56 near Kilauea, tour, gift shop, samples, and gardens
Ha’ena Beach Park – parking, showers, good beach walking and easy access to Ke’e and Tunnels beaches
Haena State Park – includes Ke’e Beach, Wet Caves, Limahuli Botanical Gardens, and the birthplace of hula
Hanakapi’ai Beach – the first beach on the Kalalau Trail hike
Hanakapi’ai Falls – a 300-foot falls two miles inland from the Kalalau Trail
Hanalei Bay – a big, beautiful bay edged by four beaches – Pu’u Poa, Black Pot, Wai’oli and Waikoko – the Hanalei Pavilion and Pier, and the mouth of the Hanalei River
Hanalei River – offers miles of kayaking into the Hanalei River Valley
Hanalei Town – enjoyable walking and cycling to see the local scene, shops, restaurants and historic landmarks
Hanalei Wildlife Refuge – walk for birdwatchers, hike through Bamboo Forest to Hanalei River, and hike up Okolehao Trail to Kaukaopua for great views of the Hanalei region
Hideaways Beach – a small cove below Princeville bluffs with good snorkeling, surfing and scenic views
Kahili Beach – Kilauea Bay’s beach where boogie boarding and surfing is popular
Kahiliholo – a 4-5 mile road winds upward through a tropical valley that also carries the Kalihiwai River
Kalalau Trail – an 11-mile trail along the Na Pali coast from Ke’e Beach to Kalalau Beach filled with switchbacks, ups and downs and stunning views
Kalihiwai Bay – a popular surfing spot and kayak access to the Kalihiwai River
Kalihiwai River – navigable between the two Kalihiwai roads from Kalihiwai Bay for only a short distance to Kalihiwai Falls
Kaukaopua – great 360-degree viewpoint at the end of the Okolehao Trail reached on a trail through the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge
Kauluolaka Hula Heiau – historically where ancient hula and chants have been performed
Kaweonui Beach – offshore reef makes for good snorkeling from this sandy black-rock cove
Ke’e Beach – a perfect little cove and sandy beach protected by an extensive reef, located within Ha’ena State Park at the western end of Hwy. 560
Kenomene Beach – next to Hideaway Beach below Princeville with excellent snorkeling in calm surf
Kilauea Bay – boogie boarding and surfing is popular at the Bay’s beach, Kahili Beach, and also access for kayaking on the Kilauea River
Kilauea Lighthouse – the most northerly point in Hawaii sits on the Kilauea Point Wildlife Refuge 200 feet above the sea and Secret Beach, and provides a viewpoint for Moku'ae'ae Island covered with seabirds
Kilauea River – curves from Kilauea Bay through a river valley for about a mile
Kolokolo Point – where the Lumaha’i River empties into the ocean
Limahuli Tropical Garden – a National Tropical Botanical Garden near Ke’e Beach full of native Hawaiian vegetation
Lumaha’i Beach – legendary scenic “South Pacific” beach about a mile long
Lumaha’i River – a short stretch of river for kayaking
Manoa Stream – a beautiful, lush trail follows the stream for about a half-mile
Mokolea Point – part of the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
Okolehao Trail – rises 1,200 feet to Kaukaopua and a great view of the Hanalei region
Powerline North – an all-day hike or a challenging bicycle ride of 13-miles to Keahua Arboretum on the East Shore, with views of Hanalei Valley all the way up the 7-mile climb to Kualapa Ridge for great views of the North and East shores
Princeville – outstanding collection of small coves and beaches – Pu’u Poa Beach, Hideaways Beach, Kenomene Beach, and Kaweonui Beach – shoreline volcanic pools (Queen Emmas Baths) for snorkeling and swimming, and beautiful views
Princeville Ranch – provides horseback rides to Kalihiwai Falls and Anini Beach
Pu’u Poa Beach – situated below the Princeville Hotel and Hanalei Bay Resort, outstanding for snorkeling, a short kayak paddle from the Hanalei River, and a local surfing spot
Quarry Beach – on Kilauea Bay east of the Lighthouse
Queen Emmas Baths – several black-rock tidal pools below Princeville that can be explored with fins or snorkeling
Secret Beach – a long beach extending from Kilauea Lighthouse to Kapuka’amoi Point at the mouth of Kalihiwai Bay
St. Sylvester’s Church – in Kilauea the octagonal church of lava rock whose walls are covered with frescoes by Jean Chalet
Third Secret Beach – one of three parts of Secret Beach, closest to Kilauea Lighthouse
Tunnels Beach – located near Ha’ena Beach Park, the best snorkeling on Kaua’i, especially during the summer, for both beginners and more experienced snorkelers
Wai’oli Beach Park – middle beach in Hanalei Bay, shaded by pretty ironwoods
Wai’oli Mission House – built in Hanalei (1841) by missionaries Abner and Lucy Wilcox
Waikoko Beach – an uncrowded place to swim and picnic near Hanalei
Wainiha River Valley – between Hanalei and Haena, provides a route to cycle, kayak or walk upriver towards the Wainiha Pali
Wyllie Beach – the far end of Anini Beach, a good spot to swim, cycle or hike to and around Princeville and Anini Beach

Thursday, October 12, 2006

PERFECT DAYS - NORTH KAUA'I

Perfect Days #7 - #14

Perfect Day #7 - Wai’akalua Beach to ‘Anini Beach

Breakfast and lunch choices. The best place in or near Kilauea for baked goods and coffee in the morning (starting at 6:30am) is the Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana Pizza (828-2020) in the Kong Lung Center. Croissants, cinnamon buns, unusual breads coffee drinks and expresso should take care of your breakfast needs and you can order a delicious picnic lunch at the same time before heading to Wai’akalua Beach. On Sunday or any day, as an alternative way to start the day, linger over the brunch or breakfast buffet and marvelous views at Café Hanalei in the Princeville Hotel.

Wai’akalua Beach. Wai’akalua is a superb, secluded beach for spending a serene morning and having a picnic before heading to Kilauea. Wai’akalua Beach is “hidden” -- a 10-minute walk down a steep incline from the parking lot at the end of the dirt road that extends from North Wai’akalua Road. From the bluff above the beach you can see the reef. Snorkeling is best near rocky Keilua Point at the end of the beach. Hikers will be able to circle Keilua Point to picturesque Kilauea Bay and Kahili Quarry Beach. Here you can see (but not hike to) Mokolea Point, part of the Kilauea National Wildlife Refuge, across from the mouth of Kilauea Stream.

Guava Kai Plantation. Picnic at pretty Wai’akalua Beach or at the secluded Kahili Quarry Beach on Kilauea Bay. Wade from Kahili Quarry Beach or hike to Kahili Rock Quarry and its lava pools. Afterwards, on the way to Kilauea, follow the signs on Kuawa Rd. off Hwy. 56 to the Guava Kai Plantation. Sample guava juice and jellies (especially the guava pineapple spread), enjoy a guava sherbet cone (can’t get it anywhere else), tour some of the 480-acres of orchards and the processing plant, and learn lots about guavas. The Plantation is a lovely place that will be a highlight of your morning -- and admission is free.

Kilauea. Drive north on Hwy. 56 and, past the 23 mile marker, turn right on Kolo Road toward Kilauea Lighthouse. In Kilauea, stop at Christ Memorial Episcopal Church and St. Sylvester’s Church, both built of lava rock. Fourteen ceramic tile panels depicting the Way of the Cross on the walls of octagonal St. Sylvester’s Church are by the famous artist Jean Charlot who ended his prolific, fascinating career in Hawai’i (1949-1979).

Kong Lung Center. Stop on Lighthouse Rd. at the Kong Lung Center to shop for high quality local art and crafts in the “Made on Kaua’i” room and also for beautiful and tasteful gifts from around the world. Rebuilt after Hurricane Iniki, the plantation-style building is listed on the National Register. Island Soap and Candle Works in the Kong Lung Center is another fun place to browse.

Kilauea Lighthouse. From Kilauea Lighthouse (open year-round 10am-4pm, 828-1413) you look down several hundred feet to Moku’ae’ae Island surrounded by Laysan albatrosses, red-footed boobies, brown boobies, wedgetailed shearwaters, great Frigatebirds, Tropicbirds and other migratory seabirds that visit the refuge. In season, you’ll see humpback whales offshore. Endangered monks seals like to rest on the beaches below the cliffs.

Crater Hill. Make reservations (828-0168, 10am-12pm, M-Th) and take a two-hour, 2-mile guided tour to the top of Crater Hill offered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The only charge for the tour is the $3 admission fee to the Lighthouse. Crater Hill, above Kilauea Lighthouse, is a great viewpoint that is part of the wildlife refuge and itself is a refuge for wildlife. This short, guided hike is one of the best reasons for planning your Perfect Day to start soon after breakfast at the Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana Pizza.

Visitors who want to check out Crater Hill on their own can park at Iwalani Road, the entrance to Seacliff Plantation, walk through an entrance next to the gate, and up the hill through the residential development to an opening in a fence that leads to a great views over the Lighthouse and Kilauea Point Wildlife Refuge.

Mokolea Peninsula and Point. Rarely do visitors explore Mokolea Peninsula. It sits below and to the right of Crater Hill as you face the sea. The wonderful lava shoreline of Mokolea peninsula is about 2 miles down a (public) dirt road off Kilauea Road. Walk unless you have a 4WD. The short hike is worth the spectacular views of waves pounding into rocks and cliffs. You may be tempted to take a dip in one of the lava pools, if the surf is right. Climb up the road by the old rock quarry to a scenic overlook across Kilauea Bay.

Kilauea Stream. From Hwy. 56 between mile markers 21 and 22, turn right on Wailapa Rd., drive to an unpaved road on your left, turn and drive ½-mile to a parking area next to Kahili Quarry Beach and Keilua Point. A beachside trail leads to Kilauea Stream and its lagoon at the mouth of the stream in Kilauea Bay. Wade the stream and climb the trail to Mokolea Point and the scenic overlook at the old rock quarry.

Secret Beach. From the Lighthouse, turn right off Kilauea Rd., just past Seacliff, drive just a few hundreds yards on Kauapea and park at telephone pole #7. An opening in the green chain link fence leads to a trail that descends to Third Secret Beach. First Secret Beach can be reached from the first Kalihiwai Rd., before crossing over the bridge on Hwy. 56, following a dirt road to your right just beyond the school bus yard. After a morning at Secret Beach or before leaving Kilauea, don’t miss lunch at The Lighthouse Bistro in the Kong Lung Center.

Perfect Day #8 - Secret Beaches & Anini Beach

Secret Beach. Start the day with breakfast at Mango Mamas Cafe near Kilauea, Postcards Café or Java Kai Hanalei in Hanalei, drive down Kilauea Road and, near Seacliff Plantation, turn left on Kauapea Road for a short distance to telephone pole #7, the trailhead for Third Secret Beach. As you’ll soon learn, the long fine strand of Secret Beach (clothing optional) no longer is a secret.

Running from Kilauea Point to Kapuka’amoi Point, at the mouth of Kalihiwai Bay, this trail meanders and zigzags along a hillside through a pretty pandanus grove until, at the base of a ravine, it reaches what locals refer to as the third part of Secret Beach. “Second” Secret Beach, in the middle, is lined with black rocks along the surf line. “First” Secret Beach is reached from 1st Kalihiwai Rd.

Kalihiwai Falls. One of the few points of confusion on today’s itinerary, there are two Kalihiwai Roads (a tsunami in 1957 destroyed a bridge that connected these roads): the first road leads to pretty Kalihiwai Bay and “First” Secret Beach; and the second, Kalihiwai Road, leads to ‘Anini Beach. From the highway bridge above and between the two Kalihiwai roads you can see Kalihiwai River below flowing less than a quarter of a mile to the beautiful, thundering, two-tiered Kalihiwai Falls. You can just view Kalihiwai River and Kalihiwai Falls from the highway bridge or by hiking on the east side of the river or by kayak from Kalihiwai Beach. (The Falls are on Princeville Ranch property and you may be asked to pay to hike to the falls if a guide sees you.) During summer months, the falls dries to a mere trickle.

Kalihiwai Bay. From mile markers 24-25 on Hwy. 56, it’s about 1 mile downhill on Kalihiwai Road to the parking lot at the Bay. Just a short way down Kalihiwai Road from Hwy. 56, turn right on an unpaved road to a parking lot from which you can walk to Secret Beach. At the Kalihiwai parking lot, to the right sea cliffs climb up Kapuka’amoi Point.

Kalihiwai Bay is a popular surfing, boogie boarding, and swimming spot (with fins) that has a wide crescent of sand shaded by groves of ironwood trees. To the left the beach leads to the mouth of Kalihiwai River and a large shallow lagoon. When you head back to Hwy. 56, it’s time for a yummy fruit smoothie or other tropical treat at Banana Joe’s.

‘Anini Beach. Drive on the second Kalihiwai Rd. to ‘Anini Beach for a long walk along Kalihiwai Beach (‘Anini Beach County Park), beachcomb along ‘Anini Beach and its coves (beyond Hono Point) or swim and kayak in the reef-protected lagoon.

Several Princeville Ranch tours head for ‘Anini on horseback:

§ 3-hour (9am-noon) ‘Anini Bluff-to-Beach horseback ride, stroll, swim, and snack;
§ snorkel and lunch at ‘Anini beach plus river kayaking for 5-9 hours, 8am & 12:30pm or 6am for the 9-hour tour, including a visit to Kilauea Lighthouse, snorkeling and lunch at ‘Anini Beach.

‘Anini Beach’s long, protecting reef is popular and ideal for safe swimming, an easy walk to Wyllie Beach, and even to Princeville up a very steep, short trail. A popular windsurfing and snorkeling spot, with lagoons protected by fringing reefs, undeveloped and tree-lined ‘Anini Beach is perfect for beachcombing and secluded picnics.

Most visitors to the island don’t know that the longest coral reef in the state is along Kalihiwai Beach and ‘Anini Beach. ‘Anini beach, beyond Honu Point, is dotted with comparatively undeveloped and quiet coves. A tree-lined park fronts Kalihiwai Beach, including tables, restrooms, and barbecues.

The beach is a popular snorkeling spot although the snorkeling is only fair. But the reef creates a wave-free shore – a kind of scenic lagoon that’s also good for paddling around in your kayak -- and the swimming is safe and fine. Windsurfing is outstanding, probably better than any other place on Kaua’i.

Visitors that plan ahead and bring a bicycle can cycle to the Princeville Golf Club from ‘Anini via Wyllie Beach and also part way to Kilauea along the Mea Hoona Nea bike trail (most importantly without cycling on the highway). From the far end of ‘Anini, this route takes a steep climb up Kalihiwai Road. Wyllie Beach, actually the far end of ‘Anini Beach, across shallow ‘Anini Stream, is a good spot to take a swim, summer or winter.

Perfect Day #9 - Kilauea and Princeville Ranch Tours

This Perfect Day combines a fantastic morning of horseback riding on and around Princeville Ranch with a visit to Kilauea that includes lunch in town.

Princeville Ranch. Princeville Ranch consists of 2500 acres for hiking, kayaking, and horseback rides that is inaccessible except on Princeville Ranch Tours -- a 4-hour horseback ride to a “secret” waterfall (Kalihiwai) for a swim and a picnic lunch, and a 3-hour horseback ride on the bluff above ‘Anini Beach.

Princeville Ranch tours also include [see http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/princeville_ranch_zip.html]:

§ hike into the hills behind historic Hanalei Town, toward Mt. Namolokama, view waterfalls, explore Hanalei Bay, and have a snack (3 hours, 9:30am – 12:30pm, Tues. & Thurs.);
§ hike to a secluded stream and kayak in the rainforest to twin waterfalls, swim and have lunch (8:30am and 1:30 pm, M-S).

Spend the rest of the day in and around Kilauea (see Perfect Days #7 & #8) or take a short hike up Powerline Trail for views over Hanalei Valley (see Perfect Day #11). End the day with a casual dinner at CJ’s Steak & Seafood at the Princeville Shopping Center, Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant or Polynesia Café in Hanalei, or be dazzled by the menu, service and views at the Café Hanalei or La Cascata in the Princeville Resort.

Perfect Day #10 - Princeville to Hanalei

Breakfast. In Hanalei enjoy a casual breakfast at Hanalei Wakeup Café, excellent coffee, waffles and baked goods at Java Kai, lox, bagels and crème cheese, croissant sandwiches with bacon and scrabbled eggs at the Hanalei Gourmet or omelets, hotcakes, and fruit plates at Postcards Café and pick up a picnic lunch for a beach or hiking trail excursion.

Walk along Hanalei Bay. Drive to Hanalei town center, turn right on Aku Street and follow it to the beach and parking lot next to the Hanalei River. Stroll over to the riverbank for the view upstream and then follow the bay west for about 1½ miles to the mouth of pretty Waioli Stream before heading back to town.

Watersports. Snorkelers should head directly for Tunnels or Ke’e Beach. Kayakers can rent equipment in Hanalei, paddle around Hanalei Bay and enter the Hanalei River (3-4 hours round-trip) near Black Pot Pier where there’s ample parking. Surfers make your way to Cannons. For those who want to explore Princeville’s small “hidden” beaches, from Hwy. 56 turn right on Kahaku Road into Princeville and continue two miles to the Princeville Hotel.

Princeville Beaches. After a banana pancake breakfast at the Princeville Restaurant & Bar, hike down to any of the Princeville Resort’s “hidden” beaches at the base of 150-foot cliffs: Pu’u Poa Beach, Sea Lodge Beach (Kaweonui Beach); Queen’s Bath (best choice); Hideaways Beach (Pali Ke Kua Beach); and Wyllie’s Beach.

Pu’u Poa Beach. Below the Princeville Hotel, and used by guests, the path down to Pu’u Poa Beach starts near the gatehouse (with parking nearby). Pu’u Poa Beach is easy to access via a concrete ramp and stairs behind the hotel. One of the island’s better snorkeling beaches, you can enjoy a beach well-protected by a reef.

Hideaways (Pali Ke Kua Beach) and Kenomene Beach. The same small parking lot serves Pu’u Poa and Hideaways, a good snorkeling beach and a favorite local surfing spot. Located between the Princeville Hotel and the Pali Ke Kua condos, Hideaways consists of two beaches. You can snorkel from one beach to the other in calm weather. These two beaches and coves separated by a lava rock point offer excellent snorkeling when calm, false kamani shade trees, usually very few people, and a delightful sense of privacy and serenity. These beaches are reached by driving to the parking lot just before entering the Princeville Hotel and then walking on a muddy trail down steep forested cliffs to the west pocket of Hideaways Beach. At low tide you can walk around black rocks to Kenomene Beach and enjoy excellent snorkeling, if surf conditions are right.

Queen’s Bath. Another “secret” place on the Princeville shore, a well-defined trail leads down to the lava shoreline from Kapiolano Road, near Punahele Road. Park in the small lot near the end of Punahele Road, hike down the path past the waterfall and over lava rocks to the lava pool that’s big enough (about 40’) and deep enough (5-10’) for swimming and snorkeling with a colorful variety of visiting fish. Bring your mask and underwater camera to Queen’s Bath, a marvelous, large natural pool carved into the lava shelf and fed with seawater from an inlet at the base of the cliffs. Queen’s Bath is at its best when the surf is not too high. Keep an eye on the waves before climbing on the rocks.

Sea Lodge Beach (Kaweonui Beach). Another Princeville beach gem, secluded Sea Lodge Beach, at the base of steep green cliffs, is accessed from a trail at the end of Kaweonui Road that leads through a tropical jungle to Kaweonui Point on the east side of the beach. (If you take the right fork off this trail, you’ll follow a footpath to bluffs behind the Sea Cliff Hotel.) Take the right fork and be very careful on the sometimes slippery trail. Watch out for high surf. In calm waters, snorkeling is excellent inside and outside of the shallow reef. Enjoy the shade for a picnic lunch on delightful coarse sand. There’s another way to get to Sea Lodge Beach. From Ka Haku Rd. turn right on Kamehameha Rd. and drive to the end. (There’s no public parking. Walk from wherever you find parking.) A jungle trail leads down to the beach.

Wyllie’s Beach. Located next to the ‘Anini River, Wyllie’s may not be very good for swimming or snorkeling but it’s a very pretty, hidden beach. Take Ka Haku Road and turn right on Wyllie Road where you can park on the side of the road. It takes a short, easy hike along an old road to get to the beach. For those who want to spend the morning on a Perfect Day or have a picnic lunch on a secluded beach, Wyllie’s provides a lovely spot where you probably won’t be interrupted. It’s too shallow for swimming and snorkeling. Paniolo and Puamano condos are on the left. Rent one of their very nice vacation rental units and, as a bonus, you can have your own more or less private beach.

Sunset and Other Views. Each Princeville beach has a great sunset view. But Princeville has many other great sunset and cliffside viewpoints. Fort Alexander, a pavilion on a grassy bluff that commemorates a failed attempt by Russian traders to colonize Kaua’i, offers one of the most memorable sunset views on the island. Just before sunset, head for the Living Room in the Princeville Hotel for a relaxing drink before a superb Italian dinner at La Cascata preferably by a window for a superb view of Hanalei Bay.

Princeville Golf Courses. Tee times for golf on the 18-hole The Prince Course, the #1 golf course in Hawaii, and the 27-hole Makai Course (3 9-hole courses) start at 7:30am.

The Prince Course. Golf Digest named Robert Trent Jones, Jr.'s masterpiece, The Prince Course (par 72, 6521 yards), the number one golf course in Hawai’i. One of "America's 100 Greatest Golf Courses," The Prince also is one of Hawai’i's most challenging, rewarding and beautiful golf courses, with a USGA course rating of 75.3 and a 145 slope. Rolling terrain and deep gorges include legendary shots and greens. A spectacular golf clubhouse, the 60,000-square-foot Princeville Golf Club, including the Princeville Health Club & Spa and the Princeville Restaurant & Bar, adjoins the course.

Makai Course. Golf Digest lists the Princeville Makai Course in its Top 50 Resort Courses and has included it in "America's 100 Greatest Golf Courses" for 16 consecutive years. The Makai consists of three courses in one: the most challenging and longest, Ocean Nine - closest to the Pacific; the impressive Lakes Nine -- winding its way around serene lakes and offering great views; and Woods Nine – laid out in native woodlands.

Perfect Day #11 - Powerline Trail

Powerline Trail runs along power lines through a forest reserve above the Hanalei Valley from the north shore to the east side of the island. Powerline Trail runs beneath Kailau Ridge along the interior side of the Makaleha Mountains. As you hike or cycle north from Princeville to Wailua, on your right, usually hidden in cloud-cover, is Wai’ale’ale, the wettest spot in Hawai’i and probably the world.

Hike or mountain bike Powerline’s entire 11-mile length to the southern trailhead at Keahua Arboretum or the 8-miles to Kualapa Ridge (2128 feet) for awesome views and return to Princeville. Take a picnic lunch and refreshments along and plan to stop for great views at Kualapa Ridge.

Access Powerline Trail after the 27-mile marker along Kuhio Hwy. 56 at Pooku Road, about a mile past the Princeville Airport turnoff. Turn mauka at the Princeville Ranch sign. In about 1.7 miles you’ll find the Powerline trailhead and parking lot. Hiking just 1-2 miles is sufficient to get good views of the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge and Hanalei River. After a mile or so, you will see some waterfalls like Namolokama plunging several hundred feet from a mountain of the same name.

The red dirt Powerline Trail cuts through interior mountain valleys and the forest reserve in the middle of the island’s almost virgin wilderness. The trail climbs through lush tropical vegetation gently uphill for about 8 miles along a dirt road fairly near the powerline poles and then descends steeply over small hills to Keahua Arboretum.

Beginners and intermediate mountain bikers should access the trail from the Hanalei/Princeville side and probably turn around at Kualapa Ridge, two-thirds of the length, in order to avoid a steep, tricky descent to Keahua Arboretum. Views of the valley from Kualapa include numerous waterfalls dropping off mountain cliffs. Ahead are beautiful views of Wailua, Nounou Mountain (“Sleeping Giant”), and the Kilohana Crater (now off-limits for hiking).

With enough food, water, good footwear, and rain gear, it’s difficult to get in trouble on this trail or get lost. During hunting season, wear bright clothing. As the name says, telephone poles are planted along the trail and pipes and poles are scattered along the trailside. But lush foliage and great views more than make up for it.

Perfect Day #12 - Hanalei Area

Spend the morning walking along the Hanalei River Trail, hiking Okolehao Trail or walking along the beaches of Hanalei Bay. At mid-day, stroll around Hanalei Town, browse or shop, have lunch and people-watch. There’s more than enough to do in the Hanalei area before heading out to Haena, Ke’e Beach and perhaps the Hanakapi’ai segment of the Kalalau Trail (although this hike should be reserved for an early morning start).

Hanalei Lookout. From Princeville take Hwy. 56 toward Hanalei, stop and enjoy the view of Hanalei Valley from legendary Hanalei Lookout before descending to cross one-lane Hanalei Bridge. (All vehicles on one side of the bridge move forward at the same time. If cars on the other side start first, let them all cross the bridge.)

Breakfast. For those of you driving from Hanalei, Haena or Princeville, have breakfast in Hanalei at Postcards Café or Hanalei Gourmet. Order a grilled ahi, roasted eggplant or other delicious sandwich to take-out for a picnic lunch. If you’re driving from the East Shore, Taste of the Islands – Kaua’i includes plenty of excellent breakfast choices in Kapa’a and Kilauea that also sell tasty take-out lunches.

Hanalei River Trail and Okolehao Trail. Drive to the Hanalei Lookout, cross the Hanalei Bridge and turn left immediately on Ohiki Road to the Hanalei River Trail in the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge (3 miles round-trip). Proceed a little over half-mile, past historic Haraguchi Rice Mill (rice was produced here from 1912-1950), and park in the parking lot on the left. From here it’s only a short walk (over a footbridge and along a cobblestone path) to the grassy knoll above the river valley to the Hanalei bird view. Taro fields spread out towards Kalihiwai Ridge.

From the Hanalei River Trail heading for the Okolehao Trail, you only have to walk a short way on the cobblestone path before leaving it for a dirt road that quickly leads to a rutted road and then a gate into the Halelea Forest Reserve. For those driving directly from Hwy. 560 to the Okolehao Trail, pass the first parking lot for a couple of miles until the pavement ends at a chain across the road. Park and step over the chain to the checking station for the Halelea Forest Reserve. After about a mile on the old road, steep Okolehao Trail gains more than 1200-feet over the next couple of miles.

Know that the Okolehao Trail is a really strenuous hike. The trail is a jungle experience that takes you across streams through tall bamboo forests and dense tropical vegetation to the banks of the Hanalei River. (During prohibition, bootleggers made okolehao spirits here, a liquor distilled from ti plants that grew along the trail.) Dress accordingly and bring along lots of DEET mosquito repellent.

The further and higher you hike, the steeper the trail and the more ups-and-downs, but spectacular views up to Kaukaopua more than compensate, especially at the peak with its breathtaking 360-degree views of the Hanalei region all the way from Anahola and the Kilauea Lighthouse to Ke’e Beach.

Hanalei Bay. From Okolehao, return to Hwy. 560 and perhaps stop for lunch at the Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant . Sit at one of the outdoor tables next to the Hanalei River and savor seafood chowder, mahi-mahi or other fresh fish. Otherwise pick up a picnic lunch at Hanalei Mixed Plate in Ching Young Village.

From here, turn right on Aku Road between mile markers 2 and 3 to Weke Road. Drive along the shoreline of beautiful Hanalei Bay about a half-mile to a county parking lot near Black Pot City Beach Park and Hanalei Pier. The Pier, next to the mouth of Hanalei River, is renown for sunset views. From Black Pot Beach and the Hanalei River, you can walk a little over a mile along the palm-fringed arc of the Bay to Waioli Beach Park next to Waioli Stream.

Hanalei Bay is edged by four beaches: Black Pot (residents used to keep a big black pot on the beach), where kayakers put in to paddle up the Hanalei River; Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park; Waioli Beach Park; and lovely Waikoko Beach, where snorkeling and picnicking are popular. Reef protection is good at Waikoko but it’s really too shallow for good swimming. Swimming is just OK around the pier but swimmers need to watch out for rip currents during winter months. The Bay’s long-lasting waves are very popular with surfers.

Hanalei Town. Pretty Hanalei has a few historic attractions, notably Waioli Huiia Church and the Waioli Mission House (1841). Monday and Wed.-Thurs., 10am and 1pm (245-3202) two-story Waioli Mission House behind the church, built by Abner and Lucy Wilcox of New Bedford, Massachusetts, is open for tours. Its design and furnishings provide a good insight into missionary life at home in the mid-19th century. Admission free.

Lunch. Lunch in Hanalei is an important part of a Perfect Day for the food and people-watching. Lunch especially or dinner at colorful Zelo’s Beach House in Ching Young Village is as good as it gets in Hanalei, offering a huge, varied selection (of beers, too) and big portions. Dessert freaks will not want to miss Zelo’s chocolate suicide cake. Take-out choices for picnics also are plentiful in Hanalei. For take-out try the big tacos or burritos from Tropical Taco or a special pizza from Pizza Hanalei.

Dinner. For something totally different, mix delicious fresh fish and music at Sushi Blues in the Ching Young Center or drive over to Princeville Resort for a splurge, splendid views and romantic dining at the Bali Hai Restaurant in Hanalei Bay Resort.

Shopping. Hanalei Center and Ching Young Village cover shopping needs and pleasures on Kaua’i from art to Hawaiiana clothing to surfwear, sunblock drinks and meals, and sports equipment. Pedal ‘N Paddle rents regular bikes, mountain bikes, bicycles built-for-two, snorkeling equipment, boogie boards and single or double kayaks, all at very reasonable rates.

Perfect Day #13 - Lumaha’i, Ha’ena and Ke’e Beaches

Lumaha’i Beach and Wainiha Bay. Leaving Hanalei, you cross Waioli Stream and pass Waikoko Beach en route to the white sands of Lumaha’i Beach, just west of Hanalei Bay. Famous (“South Pacific” where Mitzi Gaynor “washed that man right out of her hair”) Lumaha'i Beach is one of the loveliest – and most treacherous -- beaches on Kaua’i. For those who decide to make the trek down from the road to this Bali Hai beach, know that it is slippery and difficult, even moreso on the way up. Lumaha’i extends to the huge black rock bluff, cliffs and hillsides of Kolokolo Point where the Lumaha’i River empties into the Pacific. The top of Kolokolo Point is a wonderful place to take a break and enjoy the spectacular view.

A turnout on Hwy. 560 provides a view of the picturesque eastern end of Lumaha’i. Wainiha Bay, just past Lumaha’i, has its own parking area and a lovely, wide, sandy, uncrowded beach. This picture-postcard beach is best for looking at and taking photos since it’s too treacherous for swimming. Don’t be misled by small waves. NEVER swim or even wade in Wainiha Bay, including in Lumaha’i Stream. Be careful even beachcombing. There is no reef to protect the beach from unpredictable waves and currents.

Kahalahala and Kepuhi Beaches. From a steep path at the western end of Lumaha’i, you’ll find beautiful Kahalahala Beach. A trail runs along the shore to this beach from the Lumaha’i parking area, near Kolokolo Point and the Lumaha’i River. The mile-long strip of Kepuhi Beach beyond Kepuhi Point and the western end of Wainiha Bay is easy to get to from Alamo’o Road, a turnoff after the 7-mile marker. Much less crowded than Tunnels Beach (the next turnoff), the snorkeling is good in calm weather but watch out for possible strong currents.

Tunnels to Ha’ena Beach Park. Protected by a huge reef, Tunnels Beach (Makua) is terrific for snorkeling and popular with scuba divers and windsurfers. A large horseshoe-shaped outer reef catches the waves and provides fantastic snorkeling (for more experienced snorkelers). An inner reef provides easy snorkeling. Snorkel tours come to Tunnels with both novice and experienced snorkelers.

Past the 8-mile marker on Hwy. 560 you have a choice of two dirt roads to Tunnels (choose the second). Park on the highway or along the dirt road that turns to the ocean at mile marker 8.4. From the beach, you can see Makana or “Fire Cliff” where in ancient times flaming logs were tossed from the summit into the sea, creating a fire fall that honored the sacred hula temple below the peak.

After swimming or snorkeling, showers and restrooms are located at nearby Ha’ena Beach Park at mile marker 9 on Hwy. 560. You might consider parking here and walking a quarter-mile along the beach to and from Tunnels.

Manoa Stream. Just before you get to Ha’ena Beach, at the 9-mile marker the road dips at Manoa Stream. (Watch out for holes in the road created by the stream.) You’re in for a tropical treat if you decide to walk a half-mile along Manoa Stream. Park and follow the lush trail alongside the stream past views of ancient taro terraces and tempting swimming holes. Turn right at the fork and soon you’ll come to a gorgeous waterfall rushing between rocks and foliage.

Ha’ena Beach Park to Ke’e Beach. Just past Manoa Stream and across Hwy. 560 from Ha’ena Beach Park is Waikanaloa Wet Cave (saltwater and not suitable for swimming). This Cave supposedly was dug by Waikanaloa, chief fisherman of the Menehune, and other Menehune looking for supernatural creatures that supposedly were stealing their fish.

Across from this Cave there’s plenty of parking at Ha’ena Beach Park. The beach’s steep descent into the water and powerful waves, resulting from lack of reef protection, make Ha’ena less than desirable for swimmers. You’ll see surfers on the left side of the beach called Cannons. Interconnecting trails extend along the beach and through the forest above the beach to Ke’e Beach about 1½-miles away. From these trails, that pass through Ha’ena Beach Park and cross Limahuli Stream, you can visit Waikapala'e and Waikanaloa Wet Caves and Limahuli Garden.

Limahuli Stream and Botanical Garden. Just past the 9 mile marker is Limahuli Stream where you may see people rinsing off after spending time at Ke’e Beach. Above Limahuli Stream is beautiful Limahuli Garden, part of the National Tropical Botanical Gardens. (Guided tours, $10 self-guided, $15 guided, by appointment only, 9:30am-4pm, Tu-Fri & Sun, 826-1053.) Self-guided tours cover areas of native Hawaiian plants, some brought to Hawai’i by the first settlers. An ancient terrace system at the Garden is in excellent condition. Just beyond the garden entrance is Waikapala’e Wet Cave. A short walk up a trail past the Limahuli stream is Waikanaloa Cave. The volcano goddess Pele is said to have dug these caves in search of a home for herself and her lover, Lohiau.

Blue Room. Cars can park on the ocean side of the Hwy. 560. From there you can walk up the short trail to Waikanaloa Cave that contains the Blue Room. In this chamber, light filters through the water in a way that turns everything blue. Adventuresome visitors who are determined to see this phenomenon have to swim in cold water through a triangular opening in the wall leading into a small chamber (8’ wide and 6’ high) and tread water with nothing to hold on to.

Ke’e Beach. Ke’e Beach, at the end of Hwy. 560, is well worth the drive from anywhere on the East and North Shore for swimmers, snorkelers, beachcombers and photographers. During (and only on) calm days, snorkelers can swim through the reef for fantastic snorkeling. Otherwise, the best place to snorkel is within the lagoon (and away from the reef opening in winter when ocean currents can suck you through). There’s a little path at the far end of the beach from which you can see up the Na Pali Coast. This path also leads to an ancient hula platform, the site of one of the most respected hula schools (hula halau) in Hawaii, where hula ceremonies are held periodically.

Perfect Day #14 - Kalalau Trail to Hanakapi’ai Beach

The Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast follows an undeveloped, ancient Hawaiian route along the edge of incredible cliffs to Kalalau Beach. Along this stunning coastline, emerald green, steep-walled valleys are fed by streams that become cataracts falling hundreds of feet. Precipitous cliffs drop off into the pounding surf below the trail.

The first two miles of the 11-mile Kalalau Trail lead to Hanakapi’ai Valley, the first valley along the trail, and the white sands of Hanakapi’ai Beach. Hanakapi’ai Beach is too treacherous for swimming, as several warning signs and the crashing surf clearly tell you. Wait for a dip in the (chilly) pools near Hanakapi’ai Falls.

Hanakapi’ai is as far as you can go without a permit to hike and camp. Access to Kalalau Valley is strictly regulated. For day trips, this hike certainly is enough, including: a steady, steep uphill climb for a mile and a steep mile down on a set of switchbacks to the beach; and another strenuous 2-mile sidetrip up Hanakapi’ai Valley to spectacular Hanakapi’ai Falls. Due to mud, erosion and stream crossings, the last part of the trail to the base of the falls can be difficult.

Relatively easy until the last half-mile, the Hanakapi’ai Valley Trail follows the stream through a marvelous rain forest, including several stream crossings. Hanakapi’ai Falls cascades about 300-feet into the back of a natural amphitheater. Watch out for rocks falling from cliffs above the falls. Find safer pools for dipping or swimming away from falling rocks. (see http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/kayak_Kaua’i_hike.html)

Kalalau. The hike all the way to Kalalau Beach is very tough, steep or narrow at times, but the incredible views of Kalalau beach and valley are worth the effort. Hanakoa Falls (above mile 6) is even more beautiful than Hanakapi’ai Falls. And part of the glorious reward at the end of the trail is Honopu Beach that with some difficulty can be reached over rocky terrain.

However, it’s important for you to know that this trail is VERY difficult, even for experienced backpackers. The condition of the trail and footing often are poor, and it can become especially slippery and tricky during and after rain. The trail is quite narrow in places along steep slopes and, at the end of the day, unfortunately you’re likely to find messy camp sites that also may be overcrowded.

Na Pali Tours. As alternatives to hiking the Kalalau Trail, and for some of the best views of the fantastic scenery along the Na Pali Coast, we recommend:

§ inflatable raft (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/napali_riders.html)
§ boat (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/napali_explorer_Kaua’i.html)
§ sunset tour (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/capt_andy_sunset_Kaua’i.html)
§ catamaran snorkel and snuba tour (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/blue_dolphin_snork.html)
§ kayak (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/kayak_Kaua’i_outbound.html)
§ helicopter trips (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/jack_harter_heli.html)