perfectdaysinkauai

PERFECT DAYS - NORTH KAUA'I

Perfect Days #7 - #14

Perfect Day #7 - Wai’akalua Beach to ‘Anini Beach

Breakfast and lunch choices. The best place in or near Kilauea for baked goods and coffee in the morning (starting at 6:30am) is the Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana Pizza (828-2020) in the Kong Lung Center. Croissants, cinnamon buns, unusual breads coffee drinks and expresso should take care of your breakfast needs and you can order a delicious picnic lunch at the same time before heading to Wai’akalua Beach. On Sunday or any day, as an alternative way to start the day, linger over the brunch or breakfast buffet and marvelous views at Café Hanalei in the Princeville Hotel.

Wai’akalua Beach. Wai’akalua is a superb, secluded beach for spending a serene morning and having a picnic before heading to Kilauea. Wai’akalua Beach is “hidden” -- a 10-minute walk down a steep incline from the parking lot at the end of the dirt road that extends from North Wai’akalua Road. From the bluff above the beach you can see the reef. Snorkeling is best near rocky Keilua Point at the end of the beach. Hikers will be able to circle Keilua Point to picturesque Kilauea Bay and Kahili Quarry Beach. Here you can see (but not hike to) Mokolea Point, part of the Kilauea National Wildlife Refuge, across from the mouth of Kilauea Stream.

Guava Kai Plantation. Picnic at pretty Wai’akalua Beach or at the secluded Kahili Quarry Beach on Kilauea Bay. Wade from Kahili Quarry Beach or hike to Kahili Rock Quarry and its lava pools. Afterwards, on the way to Kilauea, follow the signs on Kuawa Rd. off Hwy. 56 to the Guava Kai Plantation. Sample guava juice and jellies (especially the guava pineapple spread), enjoy a guava sherbet cone (can’t get it anywhere else), tour some of the 480-acres of orchards and the processing plant, and learn lots about guavas. The Plantation is a lovely place that will be a highlight of your morning -- and admission is free.

Kilauea. Drive north on Hwy. 56 and, past the 23 mile marker, turn right on Kolo Road toward Kilauea Lighthouse. In Kilauea, stop at Christ Memorial Episcopal Church and St. Sylvester’s Church, both built of lava rock. Fourteen ceramic tile panels depicting the Way of the Cross on the walls of octagonal St. Sylvester’s Church are by the famous artist Jean Charlot who ended his prolific, fascinating career in Hawai’i (1949-1979).

Kong Lung Center. Stop on Lighthouse Rd. at the Kong Lung Center to shop for high quality local art and crafts in the “Made on Kaua’i” room and also for beautiful and tasteful gifts from around the world. Rebuilt after Hurricane Iniki, the plantation-style building is listed on the National Register. Island Soap and Candle Works in the Kong Lung Center is another fun place to browse.

Kilauea Lighthouse. From Kilauea Lighthouse (open year-round 10am-4pm, 828-1413) you look down several hundred feet to Moku’ae’ae Island surrounded by Laysan albatrosses, red-footed boobies, brown boobies, wedgetailed shearwaters, great Frigatebirds, Tropicbirds and other migratory seabirds that visit the refuge. In season, you’ll see humpback whales offshore. Endangered monks seals like to rest on the beaches below the cliffs.

Crater Hill. Make reservations (828-0168, 10am-12pm, M-Th) and take a two-hour, 2-mile guided tour to the top of Crater Hill offered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The only charge for the tour is the $3 admission fee to the Lighthouse. Crater Hill, above Kilauea Lighthouse, is a great viewpoint that is part of the wildlife refuge and itself is a refuge for wildlife. This short, guided hike is one of the best reasons for planning your Perfect Day to start soon after breakfast at the Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana Pizza.

Visitors who want to check out Crater Hill on their own can park at Iwalani Road, the entrance to Seacliff Plantation, walk through an entrance next to the gate, and up the hill through the residential development to an opening in a fence that leads to a great views over the Lighthouse and Kilauea Point Wildlife Refuge.

Mokolea Peninsula and Point. Rarely do visitors explore Mokolea Peninsula. It sits below and to the right of Crater Hill as you face the sea. The wonderful lava shoreline of Mokolea peninsula is about 2 miles down a (public) dirt road off Kilauea Road. Walk unless you have a 4WD. The short hike is worth the spectacular views of waves pounding into rocks and cliffs. You may be tempted to take a dip in one of the lava pools, if the surf is right. Climb up the road by the old rock quarry to a scenic overlook across Kilauea Bay.

Kilauea Stream. From Hwy. 56 between mile markers 21 and 22, turn right on Wailapa Rd., drive to an unpaved road on your left, turn and drive ½-mile to a parking area next to Kahili Quarry Beach and Keilua Point. A beachside trail leads to Kilauea Stream and its lagoon at the mouth of the stream in Kilauea Bay. Wade the stream and climb the trail to Mokolea Point and the scenic overlook at the old rock quarry.

Secret Beach. From the Lighthouse, turn right off Kilauea Rd., just past Seacliff, drive just a few hundreds yards on Kauapea and park at telephone pole #7. An opening in the green chain link fence leads to a trail that descends to Third Secret Beach. First Secret Beach can be reached from the first Kalihiwai Rd., before crossing over the bridge on Hwy. 56, following a dirt road to your right just beyond the school bus yard. After a morning at Secret Beach or before leaving Kilauea, don’t miss lunch at The Lighthouse Bistro in the Kong Lung Center.

Perfect Day #8 - Secret Beaches & Anini Beach

Secret Beach. Start the day with breakfast at Mango Mamas Cafe near Kilauea, Postcards Café or Java Kai Hanalei in Hanalei, drive down Kilauea Road and, near Seacliff Plantation, turn left on Kauapea Road for a short distance to telephone pole #7, the trailhead for Third Secret Beach. As you’ll soon learn, the long fine strand of Secret Beach (clothing optional) no longer is a secret.

Running from Kilauea Point to Kapuka’amoi Point, at the mouth of Kalihiwai Bay, this trail meanders and zigzags along a hillside through a pretty pandanus grove until, at the base of a ravine, it reaches what locals refer to as the third part of Secret Beach. “Second” Secret Beach, in the middle, is lined with black rocks along the surf line. “First” Secret Beach is reached from 1st Kalihiwai Rd.

Kalihiwai Falls. One of the few points of confusion on today’s itinerary, there are two Kalihiwai Roads (a tsunami in 1957 destroyed a bridge that connected these roads): the first road leads to pretty Kalihiwai Bay and “First” Secret Beach; and the second, Kalihiwai Road, leads to ‘Anini Beach. From the highway bridge above and between the two Kalihiwai roads you can see Kalihiwai River below flowing less than a quarter of a mile to the beautiful, thundering, two-tiered Kalihiwai Falls. You can just view Kalihiwai River and Kalihiwai Falls from the highway bridge or by hiking on the east side of the river or by kayak from Kalihiwai Beach. (The Falls are on Princeville Ranch property and you may be asked to pay to hike to the falls if a guide sees you.) During summer months, the falls dries to a mere trickle.

Kalihiwai Bay. From mile markers 24-25 on Hwy. 56, it’s about 1 mile downhill on Kalihiwai Road to the parking lot at the Bay. Just a short way down Kalihiwai Road from Hwy. 56, turn right on an unpaved road to a parking lot from which you can walk to Secret Beach. At the Kalihiwai parking lot, to the right sea cliffs climb up Kapuka’amoi Point.

Kalihiwai Bay is a popular surfing, boogie boarding, and swimming spot (with fins) that has a wide crescent of sand shaded by groves of ironwood trees. To the left the beach leads to the mouth of Kalihiwai River and a large shallow lagoon. When you head back to Hwy. 56, it’s time for a yummy fruit smoothie or other tropical treat at Banana Joe’s.

‘Anini Beach. Drive on the second Kalihiwai Rd. to ‘Anini Beach for a long walk along Kalihiwai Beach (‘Anini Beach County Park), beachcomb along ‘Anini Beach and its coves (beyond Hono Point) or swim and kayak in the reef-protected lagoon.

Several Princeville Ranch tours head for ‘Anini on horseback:

§ 3-hour (9am-noon) ‘Anini Bluff-to-Beach horseback ride, stroll, swim, and snack;
§ snorkel and lunch at ‘Anini beach plus river kayaking for 5-9 hours, 8am & 12:30pm or 6am for the 9-hour tour, including a visit to Kilauea Lighthouse, snorkeling and lunch at ‘Anini Beach.

‘Anini Beach’s long, protecting reef is popular and ideal for safe swimming, an easy walk to Wyllie Beach, and even to Princeville up a very steep, short trail. A popular windsurfing and snorkeling spot, with lagoons protected by fringing reefs, undeveloped and tree-lined ‘Anini Beach is perfect for beachcombing and secluded picnics.

Most visitors to the island don’t know that the longest coral reef in the state is along Kalihiwai Beach and ‘Anini Beach. ‘Anini beach, beyond Honu Point, is dotted with comparatively undeveloped and quiet coves. A tree-lined park fronts Kalihiwai Beach, including tables, restrooms, and barbecues.

The beach is a popular snorkeling spot although the snorkeling is only fair. But the reef creates a wave-free shore – a kind of scenic lagoon that’s also good for paddling around in your kayak -- and the swimming is safe and fine. Windsurfing is outstanding, probably better than any other place on Kaua’i.

Visitors that plan ahead and bring a bicycle can cycle to the Princeville Golf Club from ‘Anini via Wyllie Beach and also part way to Kilauea along the Mea Hoona Nea bike trail (most importantly without cycling on the highway). From the far end of ‘Anini, this route takes a steep climb up Kalihiwai Road. Wyllie Beach, actually the far end of ‘Anini Beach, across shallow ‘Anini Stream, is a good spot to take a swim, summer or winter.

Perfect Day #9 - Kilauea and Princeville Ranch Tours

This Perfect Day combines a fantastic morning of horseback riding on and around Princeville Ranch with a visit to Kilauea that includes lunch in town.

Princeville Ranch. Princeville Ranch consists of 2500 acres for hiking, kayaking, and horseback rides that is inaccessible except on Princeville Ranch Tours -- a 4-hour horseback ride to a “secret” waterfall (Kalihiwai) for a swim and a picnic lunch, and a 3-hour horseback ride on the bluff above ‘Anini Beach.

Princeville Ranch tours also include [see http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/princeville_ranch_zip.html]:

§ hike into the hills behind historic Hanalei Town, toward Mt. Namolokama, view waterfalls, explore Hanalei Bay, and have a snack (3 hours, 9:30am – 12:30pm, Tues. & Thurs.);
§ hike to a secluded stream and kayak in the rainforest to twin waterfalls, swim and have lunch (8:30am and 1:30 pm, M-S).

Spend the rest of the day in and around Kilauea (see Perfect Days #7 & #8) or take a short hike up Powerline Trail for views over Hanalei Valley (see Perfect Day #11). End the day with a casual dinner at CJ’s Steak & Seafood at the Princeville Shopping Center, Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant or Polynesia Café in Hanalei, or be dazzled by the menu, service and views at the Café Hanalei or La Cascata in the Princeville Resort.

Perfect Day #10 - Princeville to Hanalei

Breakfast. In Hanalei enjoy a casual breakfast at Hanalei Wakeup Café, excellent coffee, waffles and baked goods at Java Kai, lox, bagels and crème cheese, croissant sandwiches with bacon and scrabbled eggs at the Hanalei Gourmet or omelets, hotcakes, and fruit plates at Postcards Café and pick up a picnic lunch for a beach or hiking trail excursion.

Walk along Hanalei Bay. Drive to Hanalei town center, turn right on Aku Street and follow it to the beach and parking lot next to the Hanalei River. Stroll over to the riverbank for the view upstream and then follow the bay west for about 1½ miles to the mouth of pretty Waioli Stream before heading back to town.

Watersports. Snorkelers should head directly for Tunnels or Ke’e Beach. Kayakers can rent equipment in Hanalei, paddle around Hanalei Bay and enter the Hanalei River (3-4 hours round-trip) near Black Pot Pier where there’s ample parking. Surfers make your way to Cannons. For those who want to explore Princeville’s small “hidden” beaches, from Hwy. 56 turn right on Kahaku Road into Princeville and continue two miles to the Princeville Hotel.

Princeville Beaches. After a banana pancake breakfast at the Princeville Restaurant & Bar, hike down to any of the Princeville Resort’s “hidden” beaches at the base of 150-foot cliffs: Pu’u Poa Beach, Sea Lodge Beach (Kaweonui Beach); Queen’s Bath (best choice); Hideaways Beach (Pali Ke Kua Beach); and Wyllie’s Beach.

Pu’u Poa Beach. Below the Princeville Hotel, and used by guests, the path down to Pu’u Poa Beach starts near the gatehouse (with parking nearby). Pu’u Poa Beach is easy to access via a concrete ramp and stairs behind the hotel. One of the island’s better snorkeling beaches, you can enjoy a beach well-protected by a reef.

Hideaways (Pali Ke Kua Beach) and Kenomene Beach. The same small parking lot serves Pu’u Poa and Hideaways, a good snorkeling beach and a favorite local surfing spot. Located between the Princeville Hotel and the Pali Ke Kua condos, Hideaways consists of two beaches. You can snorkel from one beach to the other in calm weather. These two beaches and coves separated by a lava rock point offer excellent snorkeling when calm, false kamani shade trees, usually very few people, and a delightful sense of privacy and serenity. These beaches are reached by driving to the parking lot just before entering the Princeville Hotel and then walking on a muddy trail down steep forested cliffs to the west pocket of Hideaways Beach. At low tide you can walk around black rocks to Kenomene Beach and enjoy excellent snorkeling, if surf conditions are right.

Queen’s Bath. Another “secret” place on the Princeville shore, a well-defined trail leads down to the lava shoreline from Kapiolano Road, near Punahele Road. Park in the small lot near the end of Punahele Road, hike down the path past the waterfall and over lava rocks to the lava pool that’s big enough (about 40’) and deep enough (5-10’) for swimming and snorkeling with a colorful variety of visiting fish. Bring your mask and underwater camera to Queen’s Bath, a marvelous, large natural pool carved into the lava shelf and fed with seawater from an inlet at the base of the cliffs. Queen’s Bath is at its best when the surf is not too high. Keep an eye on the waves before climbing on the rocks.

Sea Lodge Beach (Kaweonui Beach). Another Princeville beach gem, secluded Sea Lodge Beach, at the base of steep green cliffs, is accessed from a trail at the end of Kaweonui Road that leads through a tropical jungle to Kaweonui Point on the east side of the beach. (If you take the right fork off this trail, you’ll follow a footpath to bluffs behind the Sea Cliff Hotel.) Take the right fork and be very careful on the sometimes slippery trail. Watch out for high surf. In calm waters, snorkeling is excellent inside and outside of the shallow reef. Enjoy the shade for a picnic lunch on delightful coarse sand. There’s another way to get to Sea Lodge Beach. From Ka Haku Rd. turn right on Kamehameha Rd. and drive to the end. (There’s no public parking. Walk from wherever you find parking.) A jungle trail leads down to the beach.

Wyllie’s Beach. Located next to the ‘Anini River, Wyllie’s may not be very good for swimming or snorkeling but it’s a very pretty, hidden beach. Take Ka Haku Road and turn right on Wyllie Road where you can park on the side of the road. It takes a short, easy hike along an old road to get to the beach. For those who want to spend the morning on a Perfect Day or have a picnic lunch on a secluded beach, Wyllie’s provides a lovely spot where you probably won’t be interrupted. It’s too shallow for swimming and snorkeling. Paniolo and Puamano condos are on the left. Rent one of their very nice vacation rental units and, as a bonus, you can have your own more or less private beach.

Sunset and Other Views. Each Princeville beach has a great sunset view. But Princeville has many other great sunset and cliffside viewpoints. Fort Alexander, a pavilion on a grassy bluff that commemorates a failed attempt by Russian traders to colonize Kaua’i, offers one of the most memorable sunset views on the island. Just before sunset, head for the Living Room in the Princeville Hotel for a relaxing drink before a superb Italian dinner at La Cascata preferably by a window for a superb view of Hanalei Bay.

Princeville Golf Courses. Tee times for golf on the 18-hole The Prince Course, the #1 golf course in Hawaii, and the 27-hole Makai Course (3 9-hole courses) start at 7:30am.

The Prince Course. Golf Digest named Robert Trent Jones, Jr.'s masterpiece, The Prince Course (par 72, 6521 yards), the number one golf course in Hawai’i. One of "America's 100 Greatest Golf Courses," The Prince also is one of Hawai’i's most challenging, rewarding and beautiful golf courses, with a USGA course rating of 75.3 and a 145 slope. Rolling terrain and deep gorges include legendary shots and greens. A spectacular golf clubhouse, the 60,000-square-foot Princeville Golf Club, including the Princeville Health Club & Spa and the Princeville Restaurant & Bar, adjoins the course.

Makai Course. Golf Digest lists the Princeville Makai Course in its Top 50 Resort Courses and has included it in "America's 100 Greatest Golf Courses" for 16 consecutive years. The Makai consists of three courses in one: the most challenging and longest, Ocean Nine - closest to the Pacific; the impressive Lakes Nine -- winding its way around serene lakes and offering great views; and Woods Nine – laid out in native woodlands.

Perfect Day #11 - Powerline Trail

Powerline Trail runs along power lines through a forest reserve above the Hanalei Valley from the north shore to the east side of the island. Powerline Trail runs beneath Kailau Ridge along the interior side of the Makaleha Mountains. As you hike or cycle north from Princeville to Wailua, on your right, usually hidden in cloud-cover, is Wai’ale’ale, the wettest spot in Hawai’i and probably the world.

Hike or mountain bike Powerline’s entire 11-mile length to the southern trailhead at Keahua Arboretum or the 8-miles to Kualapa Ridge (2128 feet) for awesome views and return to Princeville. Take a picnic lunch and refreshments along and plan to stop for great views at Kualapa Ridge.

Access Powerline Trail after the 27-mile marker along Kuhio Hwy. 56 at Pooku Road, about a mile past the Princeville Airport turnoff. Turn mauka at the Princeville Ranch sign. In about 1.7 miles you’ll find the Powerline trailhead and parking lot. Hiking just 1-2 miles is sufficient to get good views of the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge and Hanalei River. After a mile or so, you will see some waterfalls like Namolokama plunging several hundred feet from a mountain of the same name.

The red dirt Powerline Trail cuts through interior mountain valleys and the forest reserve in the middle of the island’s almost virgin wilderness. The trail climbs through lush tropical vegetation gently uphill for about 8 miles along a dirt road fairly near the powerline poles and then descends steeply over small hills to Keahua Arboretum.

Beginners and intermediate mountain bikers should access the trail from the Hanalei/Princeville side and probably turn around at Kualapa Ridge, two-thirds of the length, in order to avoid a steep, tricky descent to Keahua Arboretum. Views of the valley from Kualapa include numerous waterfalls dropping off mountain cliffs. Ahead are beautiful views of Wailua, Nounou Mountain (“Sleeping Giant”), and the Kilohana Crater (now off-limits for hiking).

With enough food, water, good footwear, and rain gear, it’s difficult to get in trouble on this trail or get lost. During hunting season, wear bright clothing. As the name says, telephone poles are planted along the trail and pipes and poles are scattered along the trailside. But lush foliage and great views more than make up for it.

Perfect Day #12 - Hanalei Area

Spend the morning walking along the Hanalei River Trail, hiking Okolehao Trail or walking along the beaches of Hanalei Bay. At mid-day, stroll around Hanalei Town, browse or shop, have lunch and people-watch. There’s more than enough to do in the Hanalei area before heading out to Haena, Ke’e Beach and perhaps the Hanakapi’ai segment of the Kalalau Trail (although this hike should be reserved for an early morning start).

Hanalei Lookout. From Princeville take Hwy. 56 toward Hanalei, stop and enjoy the view of Hanalei Valley from legendary Hanalei Lookout before descending to cross one-lane Hanalei Bridge. (All vehicles on one side of the bridge move forward at the same time. If cars on the other side start first, let them all cross the bridge.)

Breakfast. For those of you driving from Hanalei, Haena or Princeville, have breakfast in Hanalei at Postcards Café or Hanalei Gourmet. Order a grilled ahi, roasted eggplant or other delicious sandwich to take-out for a picnic lunch. If you’re driving from the East Shore, Taste of the Islands – Kaua’i includes plenty of excellent breakfast choices in Kapa’a and Kilauea that also sell tasty take-out lunches.

Hanalei River Trail and Okolehao Trail. Drive to the Hanalei Lookout, cross the Hanalei Bridge and turn left immediately on Ohiki Road to the Hanalei River Trail in the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge (3 miles round-trip). Proceed a little over half-mile, past historic Haraguchi Rice Mill (rice was produced here from 1912-1950), and park in the parking lot on the left. From here it’s only a short walk (over a footbridge and along a cobblestone path) to the grassy knoll above the river valley to the Hanalei bird view. Taro fields spread out towards Kalihiwai Ridge.

From the Hanalei River Trail heading for the Okolehao Trail, you only have to walk a short way on the cobblestone path before leaving it for a dirt road that quickly leads to a rutted road and then a gate into the Halelea Forest Reserve. For those driving directly from Hwy. 560 to the Okolehao Trail, pass the first parking lot for a couple of miles until the pavement ends at a chain across the road. Park and step over the chain to the checking station for the Halelea Forest Reserve. After about a mile on the old road, steep Okolehao Trail gains more than 1200-feet over the next couple of miles.

Know that the Okolehao Trail is a really strenuous hike. The trail is a jungle experience that takes you across streams through tall bamboo forests and dense tropical vegetation to the banks of the Hanalei River. (During prohibition, bootleggers made okolehao spirits here, a liquor distilled from ti plants that grew along the trail.) Dress accordingly and bring along lots of DEET mosquito repellent.

The further and higher you hike, the steeper the trail and the more ups-and-downs, but spectacular views up to Kaukaopua more than compensate, especially at the peak with its breathtaking 360-degree views of the Hanalei region all the way from Anahola and the Kilauea Lighthouse to Ke’e Beach.

Hanalei Bay. From Okolehao, return to Hwy. 560 and perhaps stop for lunch at the Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant . Sit at one of the outdoor tables next to the Hanalei River and savor seafood chowder, mahi-mahi or other fresh fish. Otherwise pick up a picnic lunch at Hanalei Mixed Plate in Ching Young Village.

From here, turn right on Aku Road between mile markers 2 and 3 to Weke Road. Drive along the shoreline of beautiful Hanalei Bay about a half-mile to a county parking lot near Black Pot City Beach Park and Hanalei Pier. The Pier, next to the mouth of Hanalei River, is renown for sunset views. From Black Pot Beach and the Hanalei River, you can walk a little over a mile along the palm-fringed arc of the Bay to Waioli Beach Park next to Waioli Stream.

Hanalei Bay is edged by four beaches: Black Pot (residents used to keep a big black pot on the beach), where kayakers put in to paddle up the Hanalei River; Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park; Waioli Beach Park; and lovely Waikoko Beach, where snorkeling and picnicking are popular. Reef protection is good at Waikoko but it’s really too shallow for good swimming. Swimming is just OK around the pier but swimmers need to watch out for rip currents during winter months. The Bay’s long-lasting waves are very popular with surfers.

Hanalei Town. Pretty Hanalei has a few historic attractions, notably Waioli Huiia Church and the Waioli Mission House (1841). Monday and Wed.-Thurs., 10am and 1pm (245-3202) two-story Waioli Mission House behind the church, built by Abner and Lucy Wilcox of New Bedford, Massachusetts, is open for tours. Its design and furnishings provide a good insight into missionary life at home in the mid-19th century. Admission free.

Lunch. Lunch in Hanalei is an important part of a Perfect Day for the food and people-watching. Lunch especially or dinner at colorful Zelo’s Beach House in Ching Young Village is as good as it gets in Hanalei, offering a huge, varied selection (of beers, too) and big portions. Dessert freaks will not want to miss Zelo’s chocolate suicide cake. Take-out choices for picnics also are plentiful in Hanalei. For take-out try the big tacos or burritos from Tropical Taco or a special pizza from Pizza Hanalei.

Dinner. For something totally different, mix delicious fresh fish and music at Sushi Blues in the Ching Young Center or drive over to Princeville Resort for a splurge, splendid views and romantic dining at the Bali Hai Restaurant in Hanalei Bay Resort.

Shopping. Hanalei Center and Ching Young Village cover shopping needs and pleasures on Kaua’i from art to Hawaiiana clothing to surfwear, sunblock drinks and meals, and sports equipment. Pedal ‘N Paddle rents regular bikes, mountain bikes, bicycles built-for-two, snorkeling equipment, boogie boards and single or double kayaks, all at very reasonable rates.

Perfect Day #13 - Lumaha’i, Ha’ena and Ke’e Beaches

Lumaha’i Beach and Wainiha Bay. Leaving Hanalei, you cross Waioli Stream and pass Waikoko Beach en route to the white sands of Lumaha’i Beach, just west of Hanalei Bay. Famous (“South Pacific” where Mitzi Gaynor “washed that man right out of her hair”) Lumaha'i Beach is one of the loveliest – and most treacherous -- beaches on Kaua’i. For those who decide to make the trek down from the road to this Bali Hai beach, know that it is slippery and difficult, even moreso on the way up. Lumaha’i extends to the huge black rock bluff, cliffs and hillsides of Kolokolo Point where the Lumaha’i River empties into the Pacific. The top of Kolokolo Point is a wonderful place to take a break and enjoy the spectacular view.

A turnout on Hwy. 560 provides a view of the picturesque eastern end of Lumaha’i. Wainiha Bay, just past Lumaha’i, has its own parking area and a lovely, wide, sandy, uncrowded beach. This picture-postcard beach is best for looking at and taking photos since it’s too treacherous for swimming. Don’t be misled by small waves. NEVER swim or even wade in Wainiha Bay, including in Lumaha’i Stream. Be careful even beachcombing. There is no reef to protect the beach from unpredictable waves and currents.

Kahalahala and Kepuhi Beaches. From a steep path at the western end of Lumaha’i, you’ll find beautiful Kahalahala Beach. A trail runs along the shore to this beach from the Lumaha’i parking area, near Kolokolo Point and the Lumaha’i River. The mile-long strip of Kepuhi Beach beyond Kepuhi Point and the western end of Wainiha Bay is easy to get to from Alamo’o Road, a turnoff after the 7-mile marker. Much less crowded than Tunnels Beach (the next turnoff), the snorkeling is good in calm weather but watch out for possible strong currents.

Tunnels to Ha’ena Beach Park. Protected by a huge reef, Tunnels Beach (Makua) is terrific for snorkeling and popular with scuba divers and windsurfers. A large horseshoe-shaped outer reef catches the waves and provides fantastic snorkeling (for more experienced snorkelers). An inner reef provides easy snorkeling. Snorkel tours come to Tunnels with both novice and experienced snorkelers.

Past the 8-mile marker on Hwy. 560 you have a choice of two dirt roads to Tunnels (choose the second). Park on the highway or along the dirt road that turns to the ocean at mile marker 8.4. From the beach, you can see Makana or “Fire Cliff” where in ancient times flaming logs were tossed from the summit into the sea, creating a fire fall that honored the sacred hula temple below the peak.

After swimming or snorkeling, showers and restrooms are located at nearby Ha’ena Beach Park at mile marker 9 on Hwy. 560. You might consider parking here and walking a quarter-mile along the beach to and from Tunnels.

Manoa Stream. Just before you get to Ha’ena Beach, at the 9-mile marker the road dips at Manoa Stream. (Watch out for holes in the road created by the stream.) You’re in for a tropical treat if you decide to walk a half-mile along Manoa Stream. Park and follow the lush trail alongside the stream past views of ancient taro terraces and tempting swimming holes. Turn right at the fork and soon you’ll come to a gorgeous waterfall rushing between rocks and foliage.

Ha’ena Beach Park to Ke’e Beach. Just past Manoa Stream and across Hwy. 560 from Ha’ena Beach Park is Waikanaloa Wet Cave (saltwater and not suitable for swimming). This Cave supposedly was dug by Waikanaloa, chief fisherman of the Menehune, and other Menehune looking for supernatural creatures that supposedly were stealing their fish.

Across from this Cave there’s plenty of parking at Ha’ena Beach Park. The beach’s steep descent into the water and powerful waves, resulting from lack of reef protection, make Ha’ena less than desirable for swimmers. You’ll see surfers on the left side of the beach called Cannons. Interconnecting trails extend along the beach and through the forest above the beach to Ke’e Beach about 1½-miles away. From these trails, that pass through Ha’ena Beach Park and cross Limahuli Stream, you can visit Waikapala'e and Waikanaloa Wet Caves and Limahuli Garden.

Limahuli Stream and Botanical Garden. Just past the 9 mile marker is Limahuli Stream where you may see people rinsing off after spending time at Ke’e Beach. Above Limahuli Stream is beautiful Limahuli Garden, part of the National Tropical Botanical Gardens. (Guided tours, $10 self-guided, $15 guided, by appointment only, 9:30am-4pm, Tu-Fri & Sun, 826-1053.) Self-guided tours cover areas of native Hawaiian plants, some brought to Hawai’i by the first settlers. An ancient terrace system at the Garden is in excellent condition. Just beyond the garden entrance is Waikapala’e Wet Cave. A short walk up a trail past the Limahuli stream is Waikanaloa Cave. The volcano goddess Pele is said to have dug these caves in search of a home for herself and her lover, Lohiau.

Blue Room. Cars can park on the ocean side of the Hwy. 560. From there you can walk up the short trail to Waikanaloa Cave that contains the Blue Room. In this chamber, light filters through the water in a way that turns everything blue. Adventuresome visitors who are determined to see this phenomenon have to swim in cold water through a triangular opening in the wall leading into a small chamber (8’ wide and 6’ high) and tread water with nothing to hold on to.

Ke’e Beach. Ke’e Beach, at the end of Hwy. 560, is well worth the drive from anywhere on the East and North Shore for swimmers, snorkelers, beachcombers and photographers. During (and only on) calm days, snorkelers can swim through the reef for fantastic snorkeling. Otherwise, the best place to snorkel is within the lagoon (and away from the reef opening in winter when ocean currents can suck you through). There’s a little path at the far end of the beach from which you can see up the Na Pali Coast. This path also leads to an ancient hula platform, the site of one of the most respected hula schools (hula halau) in Hawaii, where hula ceremonies are held periodically.

Perfect Day #14 - Kalalau Trail to Hanakapi’ai Beach

The Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast follows an undeveloped, ancient Hawaiian route along the edge of incredible cliffs to Kalalau Beach. Along this stunning coastline, emerald green, steep-walled valleys are fed by streams that become cataracts falling hundreds of feet. Precipitous cliffs drop off into the pounding surf below the trail.

The first two miles of the 11-mile Kalalau Trail lead to Hanakapi’ai Valley, the first valley along the trail, and the white sands of Hanakapi’ai Beach. Hanakapi’ai Beach is too treacherous for swimming, as several warning signs and the crashing surf clearly tell you. Wait for a dip in the (chilly) pools near Hanakapi’ai Falls.

Hanakapi’ai is as far as you can go without a permit to hike and camp. Access to Kalalau Valley is strictly regulated. For day trips, this hike certainly is enough, including: a steady, steep uphill climb for a mile and a steep mile down on a set of switchbacks to the beach; and another strenuous 2-mile sidetrip up Hanakapi’ai Valley to spectacular Hanakapi’ai Falls. Due to mud, erosion and stream crossings, the last part of the trail to the base of the falls can be difficult.

Relatively easy until the last half-mile, the Hanakapi’ai Valley Trail follows the stream through a marvelous rain forest, including several stream crossings. Hanakapi’ai Falls cascades about 300-feet into the back of a natural amphitheater. Watch out for rocks falling from cliffs above the falls. Find safer pools for dipping or swimming away from falling rocks. (see http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/kayak_Kaua’i_hike.html)

Kalalau. The hike all the way to Kalalau Beach is very tough, steep or narrow at times, but the incredible views of Kalalau beach and valley are worth the effort. Hanakoa Falls (above mile 6) is even more beautiful than Hanakapi’ai Falls. And part of the glorious reward at the end of the trail is Honopu Beach that with some difficulty can be reached over rocky terrain.

However, it’s important for you to know that this trail is VERY difficult, even for experienced backpackers. The condition of the trail and footing often are poor, and it can become especially slippery and tricky during and after rain. The trail is quite narrow in places along steep slopes and, at the end of the day, unfortunately you’re likely to find messy camp sites that also may be overcrowded.

Na Pali Tours. As alternatives to hiking the Kalalau Trail, and for some of the best views of the fantastic scenery along the Na Pali Coast, we recommend:

§ inflatable raft (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/napali_riders.html)
§ boat (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/napali_explorer_Kaua’i.html)
§ sunset tour (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/capt_andy_sunset_Kaua’i.html)
§ catamaran snorkel and snuba tour (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/blue_dolphin_snork.html)
§ kayak (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/kayak_Kaua’i_outbound.html)
§ helicopter trips (see, for example, http://www.tombarefoot.com/Kaua’i/jack_harter_heli.html)

posted by arno @ 9:27 AM