perfectdaysinkauai

PERFECT DAYS - EAST KAUA’I

The East Shore extends from Lihue almost to Kilauea. Roads off Hwy. 56 lead to the most interesting sights and activities on the East Shore:

§ in Lihue, Rice Street and Nawiliwili Road to the Grove Farm Homestead Museum, the Menehune Fishpond, Hule’ia Stream and hidden Kipu Falls;

§ Hwy. 583 to Wailua Falls; Hwy. 580 to ‘Opaeka’a Falls, a series of sacred temples and other sites, Wailua River sights, the Sleeping Giant and other hiking trailheads;

§ The beaches and bays of Kapa’a, Kealia, Anahola, Aliomanu, Papa’a, Moloa’a, and Larsens;

§ Shopping for gifts and art, dining, and visiting historic sites in Kapa’a and Wailua.

Highlights

North of Kapa’a, a series of picturesque beaches and bays – Anahola, Aliomanu, Papa’a Bay, Moloa’a Bay, Larsen’s Beach, and Pila’a Beaches -- offer days of beachcombing, some areas for safe snorkeling, swimming, and boogie-boarding on calm days, and possibilities for wonderful seclusion, if you know where to look for it. North of these bays and beaches, the former plantation town of Kilauea, at the 23-mile marker, begins Kaua’i’s North Shore.

The long East Coast shelters many coves and beautiful getaway beaches that may require a little hiking and searching out. Although the beaches of Po’ipu and the South Shore and Hanalei and the North Shore are better known, the East Shore offers even more choices for visitors looking for idyllic hidden tropical beaches -- little sandy gems tucked away off busy highways and roads, out of sight, away from traffic noise and easily accessible to vacation rentals.

South from Kilauea

From the north looking south, the top of Crater Hill, overlooking Kilauea Point, looks down at the pretty beaches of Wai’akalua and a small palm-fringed crescent of sand, Pila’a Beach. These beaches are at the northern end of the East Coast.

From Pila’a Beach, which is not worth the long hike to its shores, Larsens, Moloa’a, Aliomanu and Anahola beaches line the eastern shore, each with their virtues and, at the very least, providing superb destinations for beachcombing, picnic getaways under ironwoods or kukui trees, combinations of beach walks and hikes or bicycle rides on paved and dirt roads along the coastline.

These beaches are reached from Koolau Road and a series of dead-end roads off Hwy. 56 between mile markers 13 and 20. Many visitors driving from Kapa’a and Wailua to Princeville and the North Shore pass by these beaches, perhaps unaware of their attractions.

Perfect Days #21-#23 focus on these beaches. Ideally visitors will not only spend more time at several of these beaches but find vacation rentals on one of them, such as Moloa’a Bay, and use lodgings near these beaches as a base for traveling south toward Kapa’a and Lihu’e and north to Kilauea, Princeville and Hanalei.

Extensive offshore reefs along the coastline south of Pila’a Beaches all the way to Lydgate Park provide plenty of snorkeling opportunities except when the surf is up and there are signs of rip currents.

One of our favorite places on the East Coast for a Perfect Day, Moloa’a Bay, is protected by lush hills on three sides and offers plenty of secluded picnicking and excellent snorkeling on calm days. Swimming or snorkeling conditions at all these beaches, however, often tend to be hazardous. Larsens Beach, for example, is very tricky for snorkeling, but the same trade winds and currents that create hazards make Larsens a pleasure for beachcombing.

The countryside and roads around these bays and beaches provide some of the best cycling on Kaua’i. For example, the 11-mile loop down Ko’olau Road and then Moloa’a Road to Moloa’a Bay and over to Larsens Beach provides a rideabout mostly on pavement with several points of beach access.

Just as beaches north of Anahola are neglected by most travelers, few visitors tour on foot, on a bike or even by car along the continuously changing coastal terrain from Anahola south to the Coconut Coast and the Wailua River area.

Water-ski on the Wailua River from Wailua River State Park or rent a boogie board for some beach fun at Kealia Beach. As an alternative, take an easy hike up Sleeping Giant for panoramic views. During sunset, stroll on the beach path from Lydgate State Park to the Radisson Hotel.

The Wailua (“waters of the spirits”) River, the widest and longest river in Hawai’i, is the sacred spine of ancient Hawaiians. Seven heiaus (temples) were built from the Wailua coast up to the source of the river, Mount Waialeale. Three of these heiaus are near the mouth of the Wailua River and Lydgate Park where “rule-breakers” could escape punishment by fleeing to a “city of refuge.”

Like other bays and beaches along the East Shore, beaches from Lydgate southward towards Hanamaulu Bay are uncrowded for miles of walking, hikes and cycling. Surfers and boogie boarders can choose between uncrowded Wailua Bay, Kealia Beach and Donkey Beach. Popular with locals, Hanamaulu Beach is safe for swimming, boogie boarding and kayaking.

Forest reserves and agricultural lands between Kilauea and the Wailua River are penetrated by trails and roads that lead up valleys and ridges towards Mount Waialeale. These trails offer some of the best hiking and mountain biking on Kaua’i. Above Kealia and Kapa’a, roads and trails lead up to viewpoints in the Makaleha Mountains and on Sleeping Giant. Above the coast between Wailua Bay and Hanamaulu Bay, Kalepa Ridge provides a viewpoint of the entire coast and inland to the Kilohana Crater and Waialeale ridge.

Lihue & Nawiliwili

Up the Wailua River, Keahua Arboretum is the starting point for many Perfect Days of hiking or biking that extend into the Mount Waialeale Basin and, on the Powerline Trail, all the way to Princeville. Three trails up to the summit of Nounou (“Sleeping Giant”) -- Kuamoo-Nounou Trail, East-side Trail, and West-side Trail – all connect, offer places to picnic, and scenic stretches of each one can be enjoyed for a few hours of hiking, with frequent stops to enjoy panoramic views. The Kuilau Ridge Trail makes a wonderfully scenic morning bike ride or hike as it zigzags through some of the most beautiful terrain and panoramas on the island.

Lihu’e’s Nawiliwili Harbor area offers another Perfect Day of walking, cycling, views from the Ninini Lighthouse, swimming or surfing at Kalapaki Bay, leisure time at the Kaua’i Marriott Resort, kayaking up Hule’ia Stream into the Hule’ia National Wildlife Refuge and a hike to lovely, hidden Kipu Falls, a favorite trip for birdwatchers. Join one of several excellent guided kayak voyages from Nawiliwili Harbor into the Refuge.

Visit the Kaua’i Museum, nearby historic buildings in Lihu’e, and the Grove Farm Homestead and Museum. Join locals in Lihu’e for delicious, inexpensive breakfasts like papaya hotcakes for breakfast at Dani’s Restaurant, Oki Diner, Tip Top Café and meals at any time of day, such as tasty plates lunches at Kalena Fishmarket, and Hamura’s one-and-only saimin or Ma’s Family Restaurant around the corner.

Golf at one of the two excellent Kaua’i Lagoons Golf Courses. Enjoy the view from Ninini Lighthouse, swim at Kalapaki Beach, and have lunch at the Marriott or at one of several good choices in and around Lihue described in the East section of Taste of the Islands. End the day with a cocktail at Duke’s Canoe Club before dinner overlooking Nawiliwili Bay, perhaps next door at Café Portofino.

North from Lihu’e

From Lihu’e drive to Wailua on Hwy. 56, visit Lydgate County Park at the mouth of the Wailua River. Lydgate Park is one of the best places on the island for snorkeling and swimming. Wailua is the starting point for several scenic sidetrips and hikes to beautiful Wailua Falls, Fern Grotto on the Wailua River and several sacred places of royal worship and birthing. Follow the Wailua River up to the remains of Hikinaakala Heiau, then head for Hwy. 580, the Wailua River State Park, the Poli’ahu Heiau and nearby ‘Opaeka’a Falls.

Every taste for food has a very decent choice of eateries for lunch and dinner in the vicinity of Wailea and Kapa’a: Pacific Island Bistro, Papaya Natural Foods and Café, Pedros Texas Barbecue, Pho Kauai and many others. Coconut Marketplace, Kauai Village Shopping Center, Kapaa Shopping Center and other small strip shopping centers along Kuhio Hwy. all have meal choices described in Taste of the Islands.

Kapa’a offers some of the best shopping on the island for local art, crafts, gifts and clothing and a walking tour through remains of Kaua’i’s fascinating 19th century history. Walk or bike on the paved footpath along the Coconut Coast between Pono Kai Beach, an excellent swimming beach, and Kapa’a County Beach Park, Waipouli Beach County Park and Waipouli Beach to Coconut Marketplace. Bike around Kapa’a and then up towards Kealia Beach.

In the morning, have breakfast and pick up a picnic lunch, swim and snorkel at Anini Beach County Park, beachcomb for shells, and take a windsurfing lesson. Picnic at ‘Anini. In the afternoon, take a river trip up the Wailua River to Fern Grotto (2½ hours), drive up Hwy. 580 to see ‘Opaeka’a Falls and the nearby Poli’ahu Heiau.

Visit Sunnyside Farmers Market in Kapa’a and purchase some fresh papayas, pineapples, apple bananas, mangos or other fruit for breakfast and snacks. Across the street, visit Kela’s Glass Gallery and other craft stores before heading for dinner locally at Lemongrass Grill & Seafood, Coconuts Island Style Grill & Bar or Restaurant Kintaro.

Checklist of East Attractions

Ahukini Landing – an old pier in Lihu’e that today is a scenic spot to launch kayaks to explore Hanamaulu Bay, snorkel without much competition or bike along a little used dirt road to Ninini Point and beyond
Aliomanu Beach and Bay – scenic, beautiful for picnicking under the ironwoods and beach walks to Anahola Bay and Papa’a Bay, but tricky for snorkeling and swimming unless it’s calm
Anahola Bay – a beachcomber’s destination fringed by ironwoods, cocopalms and other trees, with good snorkeling during low surf
Anahola Beach Park – popular with locals on weekends and good for picnics under the ironwoods all week
Anahola Stream – heads about a mile inland through a lush, bird-filled valley that is a delight for kayakers
Baby Beach – another name for Waipouli Beach Park north of Waipouli Beach
Bellstone – on Hwy. 580 in Wailua River Valley, a stone with a metallic sound that in ancient times was used to signal the birth of a new chief
Birthstone Heiau – sacred site in the Wailua River valley where royal children were born
Coconut Coast – coral beaches and a paved path run from Waipouli Beach to Wailua Bay and the Wailua River, passing through the Coconut Marketplace and across the river via Hwy. 56
Donkey Beach – a good place for beach walks and waves that attract experienced surfers
Fern Grotto – a natural amphitheater on the Wailua River filled with ferns, and a popular boat trip, especially as part of weddings
Grove Farm – museum, home, cottages and gardens of the Wilcox family, on an 80-acre sugar plantation founded in 1864 (open for tours Mon., Wed. & Thurs. 10am & 1pm, make reservations in advance)
Hanamaulu Bay – a favorite of locals for picnicking, swimming, boogie boarding and body-surfing
Hikina’akala Heiau – first of seven heiaus, in Lydgate Beach State Park, next to the Hauola City of Refuge where those cast out of society could escape to safety
Hauola City of Refuge – the first heiau on the Wailua River, part of the Hikina’alala Heiau, that protected kapu-breakers from execution
Hula Shows – in Coconut Marketplace some afternoons
Hule’ia Stream – kayakers’ delight, accessed from Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor, extends several miles, past the Menehune Fish Pond, to a cascade
Kalapaki Beach – in a protected cove within Nawiliwili Bay, in front of the Kaua’i Marriott and the Anchor Cove Shopping Center, popular for swimming, snorkeling, surfing and kayaking or just relaxing under the palm trees
Kamokila Village – a privately-owned, recreated Hawaiian village
Kapa’a Town – a restored plantation town and the commercial center of the East Coast, its main street is lined with false-front wooden stores, rebuilt after Hurricane Iniki
Kaua’i Marriott – grand resort hotel in Lihu’e’s harbor area fronting on one of the island’s most beautiful beaches, Kalapaki Beach
Kaua’i Museum – permanent and rotating displays of Hawaiian and Kaua’i history and artifacts plus an excellent gift shop, including excellent examples of local art
Keahua Arboretum – a picnic area and horticultural experience around the Arboretum and, nearby, trailheads for the Kuilau Ridge Trail and the Powerline Trail, and a hiking and cycling trail into the Waialeale basin where two streams join the Wailua River
Kealia Beach – snorkel or swim, boogie board or surf, walk to the Kealia Lookout, walk or cycle in the other direction north along the coast to Donkey Beach and from there as far as Anahola Beach, or cycle up Kealia Stream Valley
Kealia Lookout – at the south end of Kealia Beach
Kealia Stream – kayakers and bicyclers can follow this beautiful stream through a rainforest for about 1½ miles inland from Kealia Beach to a secluded waterfall where you can dive off a cliff into the pool below
Kilohana Plantation – about a mile outside of Lihu’e, the restored home of Gaylord Wilcox also includes Gaylord’s Restaurant, shops and galleries
Kipu Falls – a small gem of a waterfall on state land (surrounded by private land) accessed by a short hiking trail
Ko’olau Road – from Hwy. 56, more than 10 miles of cycling and access to Moloa’a Bay and other beaches and shoreline attractions
Kualapa Ridge – highpoint of the Powerline Trail above Hanalei River Valley
Kuilau Ridge Trail – one of the most beautiful forest walks on the island with its trailhead near Keahua Arboretum
Kuki’i Point – an enjoyable walk from the Kaua’i Marriott for views of Nawiliwili Harbor
Larsens Beach – several beach segments ideal for beachcombing, snorkeling on calm days, bordered by a cycling route along Ko’olau Road
Lihu’e – the capital city of Kaua’i, home of the Kaua’i Museum, several excellent local restaurants, the Kaua’i Marriott, Kalapaki Beach, and Grove Farm Homestead
Lydgate Beach – a state park with the safest snorkeling and swimming on Kaua’i, showers and other public facilities, site of the “City of Refuge,” and easy access to Nukoli’i Beach, the longest beach on the East Shore
Lydgate Park – at the mouth of the Wailua River, includes a man-made swimming area that provides safe snorkeling and is especially good for children
Malae Heiau – the most intact of seven ancient temples (heiaus) built between Wailua Bay and Wai'ale'ale mountain
Menehune Fishpond – a large fishpond next to Hule’ia Stream that, according to legend, was built by the original settlers on Kaua’i as much as 1,000 years ago
Moalepe Trail – good for hiking, mountain biking and also horseback riders up to the Kuilau Ridge Trail
Moloa’a Bay – a lovely, lush crescent, good for snorkeling, swimming, picnicking and relaxing
Nawiliwili Harbor – home of Kalapaki Bay and Beach, the Kaua’i Marriott Resort Hotel, and the Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor
Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor – home to kayak outfitters, sailing and fishing guides and vessels, and the best place from which to access Hule’ia Stream
Ninini Point – the entrance to Nawiliwili Harbor that can be part of a local mountain biking trip on the Ahukini coast or inland to the Kipu Falls area
Nukoli’i Beach – from this long beach south of Lydgate Beach cyclers can bike all the way to Anahola
‘Opaeka’a Falls Lookout - viewpoint of gorgeous falls on Hwy. 580 in the Wailua River Valley
Pila’a Beaches – three little beaches between Larsens Beach and Kilauea Bay
Powerline Trail – an 11-mile trail that provides great views as it heads up to Kualapa Ridge from southern and northern trailheads at Keahua Arboretum and near Princeville respectively
Sleeping Giant Trails – within the Nounou Mountain Forest Reserve, three trailheads – Westside, Kuamo’o and Eastside -- offer three very different hikes to the top of Sleeping Giant Mountain
Smith’s Tropical Gardens – lovely gardens along the Wailua River open to the public with an admission charge and offering the best luau on the island
Wai’ale’ale Basin – beyond the Keahua Arboretum where several streams from Waialeale converge on the Wailua River
Wailua Beach – offers a scenic stroll that, when the river is low, connects with Lydgate Park and follows the Coconut Coast, and southward connects with Nukoli’i Beach
Wailua Falls – falls along the South Fork of the Wailua River accessed by car on Hwy. 583 or by kayakers on the Wailua River
Wailua River – – flows through southern and northern forks from Wai’ale’ale Crater, the wettest spot on earth, passes Fern Grotto, Wailua Marina and Smith Tropical Gardens, cruise boats, kayaks, ski boats, and outrigger canoes on its way to Wailua Bay and the ocean
Waipehe’e Falls Trail – inland off Kealia Road, a scenic walk or bike ride goes to the Falls
Waipouli Beach Park – just south of Kapa’a, mainly a nice place to walk.

Kapa’a

Hawaiians used to grow taro in swampy areas around Kapa’a that were drained to reduce the problem of flooding and to grow other crops. Much of Kapa’a’s commercial center was developed by Chinese merchants who prospered by growing and milling rice in Kapa’a and Hanalei Valley. For a century as a sugar plantation center, Kapa’a’s fields were worked by Chinese, Portuguese, Filipino and Japanese day laborers. In order to transport sugar and rice, Kuhio Highway (Hwy. 56) replaced the ancient Hawaiian coastal trail around the island. Today the main street of Kapa’a (Hwy. 56) can get so congested that many people take the bypass road between mile marker 6 and 7.

Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, the Kaua’i Historical Society conducts a 90-minute walking tour of Kapa’a that begins and ends at the Pono Kai Resort (10 am-4 pm, adults $15, children under 12 $5, 245-3377). A large pineapple cannery was located on the site of this Resort that, along with 3500 acres of pineapple fields, employed thousands of workers until it was driven out of business by global competition in the early 1960s.

Shopping. After a morning of swimming, snorkeling, beachwalking or bicycling, it’s time for lunch and shopping in Kapa’a. Coconut Marketplace with 70 shops is the dominant shopping center in the Kapa’a area. There are many shops to visit for gifts, island-style clothing, art and crafts, including Overboard, Jungle Rain, Ye Old Ship Store, and the Kahn Gallery. Other small shopping centers in the area have some interesting stores, like Kinipopo Shopping Village and its exceptional Goldsmith’s Gallery, and Kaua’i Village with Wyland Galleries and Papayas Natural Foods.

Kapa’a provides several pleasant shopping surprises:

§ Kela’s Glass Gallery with its very impressive collection of handmade glass created by over 100 artists;
§ Kebanu Gallery’s gorgeous ceramic pottery, jewelry, woodwork, glassware and other creative gifts;
§ South China Trading Company sells tropical furniture, accessories, artifacts, and gifts created in the Asia Pacific;
§ Island Hemp & Cotton that displays beautiful materials and clothing and gifts made of silk-hemp, linen-hemp and other fine materials.

Former Kawamura Warehouse. One of the island’s most popular, and least expensive B&B’s, the K.K. Bed & Bath, was built in the Kawamura family’s warehouse and rebuilt after Hurricane Iniki (September 11, 1992). The 1924 plantation house on this property is on the National Register of Historic Properties. K.K. B&B was named after grandpa Keno whose former store now houses several local shops that are worth visiting on your tour of the town – Hula Girl, Vintage Collection and Jacques Amo Fine Jewelry.

More Kapa’a Shopping. Other stores and locations in Kapa’a that you’ll enjoy visiting to look for Hawaiian gifts, souvenirs, collectibles, antiques, artwork, jewelry and the like as you stroll around include: Dondi Ho Boutique; Grande Gems & Gallery; Hawaiian Wear Factory; Hee Fat Marketplace; Kaua’i Products Fair; Lana’s Hawaiian Shop; Passion Wear Kaua’I; Tamba Surf Company; and Tropical Tantrum

Kaua’i’s Artists. Kaua’i nurtures a large number of artists who sell their works and regularly exhibit on the island. These artists are actively promoted and encouraged by the Kaua’i Society of Artists (see http://www.kauaisocietyofartists.org).

Meals in Kapa’a. After working up a good appetite during an early beach walk, have breakfast at the Ono Family Restaurant for a choice of 18 omelets, banana macadamia nut pancakes, and other delicious items that pack in customers. Pick up a picnic lunch at Papaya’s or eat Mexican, Thai or veggie fare on the patio. Lemongrass Grill and Seafood & Sushi Bar combines Burmese, Thai, Chinese and Japanese ingredients and cooking.The owner of Lemongrass also owns Mema Thai Chinese Cuisine, in the Waipouli Shopping Plaza, that has a lunch and dinner menu of delicious Chinese dishes with flavorful Thai tastes.

PERFECT DAYS #15 TO #23

Perfect Day #15 - In and Around Lihu’e

The capital of Kaua’i County, which includes the islands of Kaua’i and Nihau, Lihu’e (meaning “goose flesh” by Kamehameha III’s high chief, who understandably found it wetter than his home in Waimea) is mainly known to most visitors for its airport and traffic in the vicinity. In order to bypass a traffic bottleneck on the outskirts of Lihu’e, take Hwy. 51 to Hwy. 570, Ahukini Road, and then return to Hwy. 56 or drive into Lihu’e on Umi Street to Rice Street where the Kaua’i Museum is easily found.

When you’re booking lodgings, remember that Lihue is the most central place on the island for touring in any direction: 40 minute drive to Waimea and 50 minutes drive to Hanalei.

The Kaua’i Museum (4428 Rice Street, 245-6931, weekdays 9-4, Sat. 10-4, $) offers a permanent display called “The Story of Kaua’i” that covers the Polynesian, cultural, volcanic and geological history of the island, missionary and plantation history. The Museum also provides a 30-minute aerial video presentation and rotating displays of Hawaiian artifacts and contemporary works by a thriving community of talented local artists. The gift shop (and its book store) is one of the best on the island.

Grove Farm. From Rice Street, take a left on Haleko Road which takes you past the Lihu’e Sugar Mill. Lihu’e Plantation was founded in 1849 and most of Lihu’e’s shopping areas, including the Kuku’i Grove Shopping Center, once were cane fields. Continue on Haleko Road to Nawiliwili Road, take a left down the hill to the harbor where you’ll find Grove Farm Homestead Museum and tours of the George Wilcox estate. One of Kaua’i’s oldest plantation estates (1864), Grove Farm consists of the original family home filled with century-old memorabilia, workers’ quarters, and beautiful tropical gardens. Tours lasting two-hours are limited to six people and require reservations. (245-3202, Mon., Wed. and Thurs. at 10am and 1pm, $)

Nawiliwili Bay. Take a left on Lala Road, turn left at the bottom of hill to Anchor Cove Shopping Center. Nawiliwili Beach Park located behind the shopping center is popular among locals for picnics and docking twin-hulled catamarans and other sailing boats.

Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor. Several kayak outfitters, sailing and fishing guides, and cruise tours start their trips here. The Harbor is reached from Route 58 and Wapaa Rd. Turn left on Wilcox Road, pass Matson Shipping, and turn left at Niumalu Road to the Harbor. From Nawiliwili kayakers paddle around protected Kalapaki Bay and start a five-mile kayaking round-trip on Hule’ia Stream.

Paddlers pass the Menehune Fish Pond, a pool right alongside Hule’ia Stream built by the Menehunes more than 1,000 years ago, located on the way into the Hule’ia Wildlife Refuge (a setting for “Jurassic Park” and “Raiders of the Lost Ark”). Take one of the guided paddle-and-hike trips that include a short hike to Kipu Falls and other cascades and pools on private property that can only be reached by licensed kayak companies. (The only reason to visit Niumalu Beach Park, across from Nawiliwili Harbor, is to launch kayaks for trips up Hule’ia Stream.)

Menehune Fish Pond. Legendary little workers are said to have built the intricate walls of the Fish Pond, 4 ft. thick and 5 ft. high, for a princess and prince. For those who are not kayaking, to get to the Menehune Fish Pond drive on Wapaa Road along Nawiliwili Harbor, turn left on Wilcox Road, and left again on Niumalu Road to Hule’ia Stream. Otherwise, from Niumalu Road turn left and then left again on Halemalu Road to the Menehune Fish Pond.

Kipu Falls and Hule’ia Stream. Continue driving on Halemalu Road to Kipu Road, turn left and follow it past Norfolk pines and turn left on the cane trail to Kipu Falls. Surrounded by cliffs, water cascades into a large pool that locals use for swimming, diving off the top of the falls. From Hwy. 50 Kipu Falls can be reached by taking a left at mile marker 3 on Kipu Road and staying on it for about a mile to a parking pullout. Walk around the gate at the cane road on a dirt road that follows Hule’ia Stream on your right. You’ll hear the roaring waterfall through tall cane. Look for an opening and descend very cautiously (treacherous footing) to the top of the waterfall that plunges 20 feet into the pool.

Kalapaki Beach. Protected Kalapaki Beach in front of the Kaua’i Marriott is excellent for swimming, bodysurfing, beginning and intermediate surfing, boogie-boarding, windsurfing and swimming. Look for more fish and safer swimming closer to the cliffs at the east end of the beach.

Kaua’i Marriott Resort & Beach Club. This resort really delivers on its promises. The 800-beachfront-acres, golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus, superb 26,000-square-foot pool rimmed by cascading waterfalls, acres of Hawaiian gardens, sauna, whirlpool or revitalizing massages, five good-to-excellent restaurants and, not least of all, outstanding service provide a unique, central base for touring north to Hanalei, south and west to Po’ipu and Waimea, and the Lihu’e area itself.

Ninini Point and Lighthouse. One of the best views of Nawiliwili Bay and Harbor is from Ninini Point and Ninini Lighthouse. You have to look for it to find it, which explains why few tourists visit Ninini Point. Driving south on Hwy., 51, pass Hwy. 570 and turn left on Haoa Road. Drive on Haoa Road around the golf course to golf hole #12 where a dirt road on the left leads to a parking area. From there you can see Ninini Lighthouse and perhaps even a cruise ship sailing past the point. If someone is working at the Lighthouse, don’t hesitate to ask if you can climb to the top for the great view.

Ahukini Landing. Mountain bikers can first visit Ninini Point and then peddle down the fine dirt road along the Ahukini Coast to Ahukini Pier overlooking Hanamaulu Bay. Ahukini Landing (a state recreation area) and its historic pineapple pier normally are accessed from Hwy. 570. Stay on it past the airport to the road’s end. Ahukini Landing attracts lots of local fishermen. Plentiful fish and clear water make it a good place for snorkelers, although you’ll rarely see more than a few.

Meals. Taste of the Islands – Kaua’i covers most of the restaurants in the Lihu’e area that deserve your patronage. We want to single out several of our favorite local and ethnic eating places in Lihue that are tucked away among a few historic (1800’s) buildings and side streets off Rice Street.

Hamura’s Saimin Stand on Kress Street is an island institution. People come from every part of the island to eat saimin, a steaming bowl of delicious broth and noodles, at the counter or in a booth. Besides a delicious passion fruit chiffon pie for desert, Hamura’s serves excellent shave ice (Hal Halo Shave Ice), but only when they feel like it. Also located on Kress Street, Lihu’e Barbecue Inn serves very tasty teriyaki pork chops, coconut shrimp, and large portions of other local dishes.

For many years we’ve returned to the Tip Top Café on Akahi Street for banana, macadamia nut or pineapple pancakes that are as good as they get on Kaua’i. Dani’s on Rice Street runs a very close second with its papaya pancakes but sometimes gets awfully loud and crowded. Plate lunches at Kalena Fishmarket just off Rice Street are some of the best in town, perfect for family picnics at nearby Kalapaki Beach.

Next to the Anchor Cove Shopping Center, Kalapaki Beach Hut serves breakfast but is best known locally for its mahi-mahi, veggie, ostrich, buffalo and beef burgers. Also in the Anchor Cove Shopping Center, JJ’s Broiler (246-4422) is a good place for a casual lunch outdoors or upstairs with a grand view of Kalapaki Beach. Diagonally across the street, Aromas upstairs at the Harbor Mall is one of the best restaurants near Kalapaki Beach for any meal.

From either the south or north on Hwy. 56, take Hanamaulu Rd. toward the ocean across Hwy. 51, continue on Hehi Road down to Hanamaulu Beach Park, very popular with locals on weekends. Hanamaulu Café, Tea House & Sushi Bar on Hwy. 56 consistently serves outstanding Japanese and Chinese dinners with very pleasant atmosphere and service in the gardens out back or in a tea room.

Perfect Day #16 - Kayaking, Hiking and Exploring the Wailua River

Wailua Falls. From Rice St., turn right on Hwy. 56 to Hwy. 583, turn left and drive 4 miles to the twin cascades of Wailua Falls on the South Fork of the Wailua River. Return to Hwy. 56 and stop at the Kapaia Stitchery to see high quality Hawaiian fabrics and quilts.

Wailua State Park. All of the land surrounding the Wailua River is public land, part of the Wailua State Park, which means that you can enjoy the rainforest, waterfalls, and swimming holes all along the river and its tributaries. All kayaks leave from the Park on Hwy. 580. Paddlers move through a kayak lane in the river set aside for non-motorized craft. This makes kayaking on the river extra safe. Less than a mile from the start, Opaeka’a Stream tributary opens up for a short, winding detour through meadows. A couple of miles up the river, Kamokila Ancient Hawaiian Village, a private reconstruction of a Hawaiian village, welcomes the public ($).

Ho’olalaea Falls. Stop on the way back for a picnic lunch in the midst of lush jungle scenery. For an exceptional sight and picnic experience, hike up to Ho’olalaea Falls. A short distance from Kamokila Village, turn into the river’s North Fork (on your right), the Sacred Valley of the Kings. From here a 2-hour round-trip hike takes you to gorgeous, 100-foot high Ho’olalaea Falls where you can swim in the King and Queen’s Pools at the base. Turning right from the North Fork, you’ll discover the fabled Fern Grotto and, just beyond, on the South Fork, a marvelous swimming area adjoining a cliff used to dive into the water.

More Wailua River Attractions. After returning to shore, on the southern side of the Wailua River visit Smith's Tropical Paradise ($) to see the lovely garden. This attraction is near the Malae Heiau temple and other sites of ancient heiaus and birthing stones along the river. If you did not stop at Kamokila Village during your kayak trip along the Wailua River, stop here to see the recreation of a Hawaiian community and then continue driving to view ‘Opaeka’a Falls.

Shopping. There’s still time for shopping and sightseeing in Kapa’a and Wailua before dinner. We especially recommend:

§ Kinipopo Fine Arts Gallery (Wailua)
§ Kaua’i Heritage Center (Kaua’i Village)
§ Kaua’i Products Fair (weekends)
§ Sunshine Market (Wednesdays)
§ Island Hemp & Cotton (Kapa’a)
§ Lemongrass Gift Shop & Fine Arts Gallery (Kapa’a)
§ Kebanu Gallery (Kapa’a)
§ Coconut Marketplace — Kahn Gallery, Ye Olde Ship Store & Port of Kaua’i, and Kaua’i Gold

If you get to Kapa’a in time for lunch, several of our favorite restaurants serve tasty lunches that will be easy on your travel budget: Blossoming Lotus, Papaya’s, Wailua Marina Restaurant, dockside on the Wailua River; Mema, Thai Chinese Cuisine and Mermaid’s Cafe. For dinner, you’ll really enjoy The Bull Shed, Coconuts Island Style Grill, Pacific Island Bistro and The Hukilau Lani.

Perfect Day #17 - Another Day Along the Wailua River

Wailua Falls. After breakfast, head north from Lihu’e on Hwy. 56 to Maalo Road (Hwy. 583), turn left and drive 4 miles to Wailua Falls. These twin-falls plunge into a pool surrounded by lush vegetation. A steep (and hazardous) trail descends to the base of the falls and the South Fork of the Wailua River. Viewing the dramatic 80-foot twin Wailua Falls plunge into the churning pool below is well worth the 4-mile drive up Hwy. 583.

Kalepa Ridge Trail. Backtracking to Hwy. 56, drive about a mile towards Kapa’a where Hulei Rd. leads to the entrance to the Kalepa Ridge Trail. This narrow trail winds its way to outstanding 360-degree views of the eastern shoreline and the Makaleha and Nounou mountains with Wai’ale’ale in the background. For mountain bikes, the 6-mile round-trip on the Kalepa Ridge Trail is challenging, but for hikers it is merely strenuous.

Sacred Sites. Continue north to historic Wailua where Kaua’i’s first communities were built along the Wailua River and Wailua was the island’s first capital. At the mouth of the Wailua River, in Lydgate Park, visit the Hikina’akala Heiau, the first of seven sacred heiaus built by the royal ali’i, and the Hauola Place of Refuge where (kapu) rule-breakers could escape punishment.

Past the mouth of the Wailua River, turn left onto Kuamoo Hwy. (580). On your left just past Wailua River State Park is one of several heiau (stone platforms that were the site of worship): the royal birthing stone, Pohaku Ho’ohanau, where expectant royal mothers supported their backs against this birthing stone; Pohaku Piko, where the umbilical cords of newborn royalty, wrapped in kapa cloth, were deposited in crevices for safeKeeping; and to visit the third heiau, Holoholoku Heiau.

Wailua State Park Marina. On the mauka side of Hwy. 56, follow the signs to Wailua Marina where cruise boats depart for the Fern Grotto (which can only be reached by river). A 3-mile boat ride up the Wailua River ends at a lava tube covered with enormous ferns. You can also rent a kayak, hire a boat and captain or take a boat tour. Rent a kayak the night before and leave early for a kayak trip up the river to the Fern Grotto.

Smith’s Tropical Paradise. From the Wailua River, traveling up Hwy. 580 (Kuao’o Road), you’ll find Smith’s Tropical Paradise ($), 30 acres of orchards, jungle paths, tropical birds, peaceful lagoons, ethnic villages and other enjoyment. Lu’au banquet’s and live shows are offered Monday, Wednesday, and Friday (5-9pm). Two miles further on Hwy. 580 is the Poli’ahu Heiau, an intact temple that was the residence of Hawaiian kings. Down a short trail, the Bell Stone was used to announce royal births.

‘Opaeka’a Falls. Across the road from the Poli’ahu Heiau is ‘Opaeka’a Falls. Drive 1 mile to the lookout on the right. From the overlook, beautiful ‘Opaeka’a Falls plunges hundreds of feet into a pool. “‘Opaeka’a” means “rolling shrimp,” which refers to a time when an abundance of shrimps rolled off the falls into the pool below.

Keahua Arboretum. About 5 miles up Hwy. 580 from ‘Opaeka’a Falls and, nearby, Kamokila Village, past Hwy. 580’s junction with Hwy. 581, is the 30-acre Keahua Arboretum surrounded by mountains and lush forests. Just before reaching the Arboretum is the trailhead for the 2.2-mile Kuilau Ridge Trail that connects with the Moalepe Trail, an additional 7 miles out-and-back, including some muddy, very difficult sections.

Shopping in Kapa’a and Wailua. Bambulei next to Caffe Coco houses a vintage collection of clothing, jewelry, laquerware and countless other items. Vintage items also is the theme of The Tincan Mailman in the Kinipopo Shopping Center. Waipouli Variety Store is Kaua’i’s “Hasegawa General Store” (of Hana fame), only less well known. Hardware and variety store enthusiasts will want to make a stop here. Nearby the macadamia nut-chocolate-coconut, etc. cookies of Popo’s Cookies are worth a detour. Some of the best fruit on the island is found at Sunnyside Market. Nearby you’ll find Kaua’i’s foremost showplace for handmade glass, Kela’s Glass Gallery. Down the street, several galleries and other shops sell art, artifacts, fashion, flowers and other interesting gift and souvenir items from around Hawaii and the Asia Pacific.

Meals. Upstairs from Kela’s, the Olympic Café is a local favorite for any meal. Nearby Beezers serves smoothies and an amazing variety of other light fare reminiscent of the 50’s and 60’s. Across the street, Norberto’s is ready is serve flavorful Mexican food. Ono Family Restaurant serves delicious plate lunches and lots of aloha in southern Kapa’a. For a dinner of excellent Japanese food or steaks and very enjoyable atmosphere, Restaurant Kintaro is one of the best choices in the Wailua area. Just across the street from Kintaro, in a former plantation house or on an outdoor patio surrounded by tropical foliage, Caffé Coco serves creative lunches and dinners.

Perfect Days #18 - #20 Hiking Trails

#18 - Kuamo’o-Nounou Trail to Nounou Mountain
#19 - Kauilau Ridge Trail and Moalepe Trail
#20 - Kualapa Ridge -- Powerline Trail

Perfect Day #18 – Kuamo’o-Nounou Trail and the Sleeping Giant

Three good hiking routes lead to the summit of Nounou (or Nounou), the Sleeping Giant: East, West and Kuamo’o-Nounou. We like the East Trail because it has better views to Wailua Bay and the ocean, inland to the Makaleha Mountains and Hoary Head Mountains. Although the East Trail is longer than the others, its slope is more gradual. Along the trail you’ll pass ironwood, guava, Christmas berry, hau and hala.

Kuamo’o-Nounou Trail East. The East Trail is about 2 miles long, only a little longer than the West Trail. Hiking both trails should take about 3 hours with time out for rest and enjoying vistas. If a vehicle can pick you up at the end of the West Trail, the best hike would be to the summit of the Kuamo’o-Nounou Trail East and then down the West Trail. Alternatively, if you’re in a group with another car, leave one car at the West trailhead and drive to the East trailhead and park.

Valley Vista Hale. Less than a mile past ‘Opaeka’a Falls (across from Nelia Street), park for the hike on Kuamo’o-Nounou Trail East. This beautiful trail leads over a footbridge across ‘Opaeka’a Stream to panoramic views from Valley Vista Hale, a picnic shelter overlooking Kalepa Ridge, the Makaleha Mountains and Nounou Mountain. The Valley Vista Hale Picnic Shelter itself is a very satisfying, easy hike of about 1½ miles round-trip that takes you to some excellent views in all directions, from Mt. Waialeale to the west, Kalepa Ridge in the southeast and Kalalea Mountain to the north near Anahola.

Alii Vista Hale. From Valley Vista Hale, its another 1½- miles to the Alii Vista Hale Picnic Shelter. You can either turn around at Valley Vista Hale or continue on the path paralleling the forest reserve boundary to its junction with Nounou Mountain Trail West which ascends 1.5 miles up to Nounou Mountain Trail East and then to Alii Vista Hale.

Nounou Mountain Trail West. Nounou Mountain Trail West begins on the west side of Sleeping Giant and climbs through forest surroundings to Alii Vista Hale overlooking the summit. The trailhead is reached from Kamalu Road (Hwy. 581). Three miles up Kuamo’o Road (Hwy. 580) from Hwy. 56, turn right on Kamalu Road (Hwy. 581) and drive a little over a mile to the trailhead sign where you can park. A wide forest reserve right-of-way leads to a footpath through the forest up to the Kuomo’o-Nounoo Trail. Swing left and head up the steep trail on a series of switchbacks to the junction with Nounou Mountain Trail East.

Keahua Forestry Arboretum. Drive 2 miles from the intersection of Kuamo’o Road and Hwy. 580 to ‘Opaeka’a Falls and another 6 miles to the Keahua Forestry Arboretum. You’ll pass the Kuilau Ridge trailhead just before reaching parking areas on either side of a stream that flows across the road. (If the water is high, don’t cross the stream.) Surrounded by lush forests and mountains and divided in two by the Keahua Stream, the Arboretum begins at parking areas on both sides of Hwy. 580, where a nature walk begins. The path follows both banks of the Keahua Stream through a wide variety of exotic tropical plants. Unfortunately none of the plants along these trails are marked for identification. You’ll see lots of Hau on both sides of the stream. Follow the path on the west side of the stream for about 10 minutes to a picnic shelter and then follow the east side that leads to two picnic shelters. Both of these picnic shelters provide peaceful places for picnics.

Perfect Day #19 - Kuilau Ridge Trail and Moalepe Trail

Kuilau Ridge Trail. From the Keahua Arboretum, walk about 100 yards back toward Lihu’e to the Kuilau Ridge Trail on the left. Hike north above the Kawi Stream through the Lihu’e-Koloa Forest Reserve on an old 4-wheel drive road that winds its way along the Kuilau Ridge. After only 1 mile you’ll reach a grassy area with a picnic table. From here, panoramic views unfold over nearby valleys and ridges, west toward Mount Wai’ale’ale and, on the ocean side, to the Sleeping Giant and Makaleha Mountains.

Moalepe Trail. If you continue up the ridge, the trail continues to zigzag between the Kawi Stream and the ‘Opaeka’a Stream. Cross a ridge between these streams and then cross a footbridge over ‘Opaeka’a Stream before taking a left fork and climbing up to the Kamoohoopulu Ridge where, a couple of miles ahead, both the Kuilau Ridge Trail and the Moalepe Trail end. Follow this ridge for a couple of miles to the intersection with the Moalepe Trail. The Moalepe Trail twists and curves down the widening mountain ridge to pastureland and open country. The trail becomes a dirt road from the forest reserve through private property to the trailhead at the intersection of Olohena Road and Waipouli Road.

The Moalepe Trail also can be reached by driving three miles inland on Kuamo’o Road (Hwy. 580) from Hwy 56, turning right on Kamalu Road (Hwy. 581) and driving less than 2 miles to the intersection of Olohena Road and Waipouli Road.

Perfect Day #20 - Powerline Trail North

Enjoy a hardy breakfast in Kapa’a and take a picnic lunch with you to eat at Kualapa or on the downside of the Powerline with views over the Hanalei River. If you hike the entire 11-mile trail, you'll need a car at the other end, near Princeville. The Powerline Trail starts about a ¼-mile north of the Arboretum at two 4WD roads that meet shortly. Park at one of the 4WD turnouts where you’ll see a hunter’s check station (silver post box). Revealing wonderful views north and west, the road rises steeply past powerline towers. It’s a steep climb for hikers and a grueling climb for mountain bikers. For both hikers and hardy mountain bikers, the goal is Kualapa, about two miles further and the highest point along the 10.5-mile trail. Kualapa provides spectacular views of mountains, coastline, two waterfalls (Kapakanui Falls on the left and Kapakaiki Falls to the right), and a breathtaking view of Hanalei Valley. In certain sections of the trail, bikers will have to carry their bikes, but it’s well worth it.

Perfect Days #21-23 - Lydgate Park - Waipouli Beach - Larsen’s Beach - Moloa’a Bay

Nukoli’i Beach Park. A stretch of sand running almost two miles, Nukoli’i Beach is reached from a dirt road between the Kauai Beach Resort and the Wailua Golf Course. A large part of the beach, including the best swimming area, fronts on the golf course. The road along the beach and the beach itself provide one of the best, least crowded places for a long walk or jog on the east side of Kaua’i.

From the southern end of Nukoli’i Beach or Lydgate Park, you can head north to Wailua Beach, and continue to Waipouli Beach and Kealia Beach. Spend the morning snorkeling, swimming and picnicking at Lydgate Beach Park. As an alternative, head south along Nukoli’i Beach toward Lihu’e. Walk along an uncrowded stretch of Nukoli’i Beach past the Kaha Lani, Kaua’i Beach Villas and the area fronting the Wailua Golf Course to the Kaua’i Beach Resort, not far from the 4-mile marker, and return to Lydgate for snorkeling or swimming.

Lydgate Beach Park. Head north from the Lihu’e area on Hwy. 56 and, about a half-mile north of mile marker 5, just beyond the Wailua Golf Course, turn right on Leho Drive and then left on Nalu Road to Lydgate Beach Park. This beautiful, grassy park at the mouth of the Wailua River provides picnic areas, groves of ironwood trees for shade, a couple of sandy ponds for children and snorkeling. Safe for swimming and snorkeling, Lydgate attracts lots of people who come to feed the fish and also to snorkel without any worries.

The Park provides lots of parking, rest rooms, showers, grass, picnic areas, and a variety of fish in the large ponds behind the man-made breakwater. Named for Reverend J. M. Lydgate, founder of the Lihu’e English Union Church in the era before Captain Cook arrived, this area was a city of refuge for Hawaiians who had violated a religious kapu (taboos). If kapu-breakers could get to this haven, their families were able to arrange for their forgiveness.

Sacred Sites. Park in the mostly southerly parking area and walk out to Lydgate Beach, past ironwood, hala and other trees towards the swimming area for children and grown ups. Near the Wailua River, you’ll come to a large boulder with a plaque commemorating the site of Hauola, City of Refuge, which stands in front of a 13th-century temple complex, Hikina a ka la, Rising of the Sun. An interpretive trail circles these sacred sites.

Early Risers and Bicyclers. If you can get up early enough, east side beach areas enjoy a beautiful sunrise. A nice bicycle path extends northward from Kapa’a Beach and you can bike along old cane roads all the way to Anahola Beach Park. The route follows Kapa’a Beach to Waipouli Beach, Kealia Beach and the Cliffside trail walk from Kealia Beach to a viewpoint at Paliku Point. From Paliku Point the route passes Donkey Beach and ends at Anahola Beach Park. Along the way, pick up a picnic lunch at Anahola’s Duane’s Ono-Char Burger.

Wailua Beach to Donkey Beach. Wailua Beach, across from the Coco Palms Resort, is popular with local surfers and boogie borders, but it’s not really good for snorkeling or swimming. Neither is pretty Waipouli Beach safe for swimming but the shoreline trail is good for walking, jogging or cycling. Waipouli Beach Park is much safer for swimming than Kapa’a Beach. However, since Waipouli Beach Park and Kapa’a Beach Park both are near the center of their towns, the beaches tend to get a little dirty.

Kealia Beach. On Hwy. 56 drive to the north end of Kapa’a and park in the pullout at mile marker 9. Follow the old cane hauling road along the beach to Kealia Lookout and coastal views. After mile marker 10, watch for turnouts to Kealia Beach. You’ll probably see lots of boogie-boarders and surfers but, except for the northern end of the beach, protected by a breakwater, snorkeling and other watersports can be treacherous. It’s a lovely beach for walking or biking along its paved shoreline. From the parking lot at Kealia Beach, a rock-lined road above the sandy beach heads north towards the cliffs at Paliku Point and magnificent views.

Perfect Day #22 - Anahola, Aliomanu and Papa’a Bays and Beaches

Before leaving Kapa’a, pick up a picnic lunch for Anahola Beach or other oceanfront destinations. The drive north past Kapa’a and Kealia quickly opens up the special beauty of Kaua’i’s east coast. For Anahola Bay and Anahola State Park, past the 13 mile marker on Hwy. 56 turn right on Kuku’hale Rd., stay to the left at the Y which leads to the Park, then take a sharp right at the next Y to the end of the road where you’ll find parking, showers, restrooms, picnic tables and shallow waters that attract local children and their families. (This is a Hawaiian Homelands area.)

Anahola Bay is a favorite getaway and fishing spot for locals, especially for picnics and other gatherings on weekends at the beach park. A grove of cocopalms bordering the beach provides shade. Here you can snorkel within the reef and, when the water is calm, beyond the inner reef. Both ends of the beach provide very pretty settings for picnics.

From the parking lot, stroll along the beach edged with ironwood, heliotrope and other tropical trees to the mouth of Anahola Stream. (Kayakers can paddle on Analoha Stream for about a mile.) When it’s shallow, you can wade across the stream and walk to the west end of the beach where there’s nothing more to do than admire a beautiful view of the bay and Anahola Mountains as you walk back to the State Park.

Vacation Rentals – Anahola Bay. Anahola Bay and its beach are lovely. You can rent a room or cottage for less than $700 per week, explore the tropical vegetation and gardens, eat fruit from the trees, relax in a hammock or hottub, walk or bike to wonderful beaches and it’s only a 10-minute drive to Kapa’a and 20-minutes to Kilauea.

Aliomanu Beach. Use the parking lot at the end of S. Aliomanu Rd., go directly to the west end of Aliomanu Beach and walk to either Analoha State Park or northward to Aliomanu Beach which attracts few visitors. Aliomanu stretches northward to the southern part of beautiful Papa’a Bay, which is well worth a short hike. Otherwise, head north on Hwy. 56 (pass S. Aliomanu Rd. at mile marker 14) and, at mile marker 15, turn right on N. Aliomanu Rd. (Aliomanu Rd. was cut in two by a tsunami.). Turn left at Kikana to a dead-end and walk to Aliomanu Beach.

Vacation Rentals – Aliomanu Bay. A few lovely vacation rentals near beautiful Aliomanu Bay suitable for a honeymoon or romantic retreat rent for as little at $650 per week.

Papa’a Bay. A popular local fishing spot, Aliomanu Beach Park (with showers, restrooms and picnic tables) also provides access to tropical-looking Papa’a Bay. Tucked into high seacliffs, this small bay lined with a two-mile-long coral reef and a very pretty crescent beach is another “secret” getaway that is a little difficult to get to on foot or by car and, therefore, not well-known to most visitors.

Drive to Papa’a Road between mile markers 15 and 16, turn toward the coast, bear right at the first fork and then left, following beach access and other signs to trailhead parking. A dirt road beyond the trailhead gate leads over a hill, down the bluffs and through a ravine to the south end of the beach lined with trees.

Locals come to Papa’a Bay year-round to ride fast waves or for harvesting limu, throw-net fishing, pole fishing and hunting octopus. Use caution as you enjoy the snorkeling. (You’ll find better snorkeling at Larsen’s Beach.)

Perfect Day #23 - Larsen’s Beach, Moloa’a Bay and Beyond

Moloa’a Bay and Larsen’s Beach deserve to be saved for their own Perfect Day. Beautiful Moloa’a Bay is the perfect place for picnicking in secluded areas on both ends of the beach and snorkeling when the waters are calm.

Larsen’s Beach. On the north side of Ke Lae Amana Point, narrow Ka’aka’aniu Beach, better known as Larsen’s Beach, can be reached from Hwy. 56. Driving south (toward Kapa’a), watch for mile-marker 20 and turn left on Koolau Rd. Drive a little over a mile and turn left on a dirt road (which says “beach access”) toward the ocean for almost a mile. You can see the ocean and the beach, which is an easy 5-minute walk. A wide dirt path gradually descends to the beach. This stretch of beach is the first of two; the second, called Waipake Beach, is reached by a short trail.

Driving north on Hwy. 56 (toward Kilauea), at mile marker 16 turn right on Koolau Road. The first turn on your right, Moloa’a Rd., leads to Moloa’a Bay after about a ¾-mile drive. For Larson’s Beach, continue driving to the dirt road (which says “beach access”), and turn right to Larsen’s Beach. Bring along a bicycle and pedal the 10-11 miles on Koolau Road between Moloa’a Bay and Larsen’s Beach.

Moloa’a Beach. Park at the end of Moloa’a Rd. Walk to the beach, turn left or right and walk to the north or south ends of the beach for the best snorkeling, depending on the swells, and plenty of places for quiet picnicking. A horseshoe-shaped bay, Moloa’a is enclosed on each side by high, forested bluffs and surrounded by groves of ironwood, heliotrope and other trees. Houses line the beach.

Just about in the middle of the beach, Moloa’a Stream divides the Bay. When the seas are calm, you can swim at Moloa'a. But Moloa’a is especially perfect just for enjoying the wonderful beach and scenery or short walks on the forested path along the base of the hills and shoreline to Ke Lae Amana Point at the northern end of the beach. At the southern end of Moloa’a beach, a trail through the ironwoods leads across a lush gully to Kepuhi Point. Clear, shallow water and a wide reef provide excellent snorkeling.

Vacation rentals – Moloa’a Bay. Moloa’a Bay is one of the most gorgeous beachfronts on Kaua’i and anywhere in Hawai’i. Visualize yourself driving down a secluded road to a beautifully furnished beachfront cottage or house on a white sand bay that rarely sees tourists and has the feel of old Hawaii. Your lodging in Moloa’a Bay will be extremely central to Kilauea, Princeville and Hanalei to the north and Kapa’a and Wailua to the south. Moloa’a Bay is only 15 minutes away from shopping, restaurants, attractions and activities located to the south and north. Places to Stay mentions only a few houses around Moloa’a Bay that can provide an unforgettable honeymoon and vacation experience.

Pila’a Beaches. Locals come to Pila’a Beaches (and Larsen’s) to harvest limu (an edible seaweed). Two of Pila’a Beaches’ three little beaches, between Larsen’s Beach and Kilauea Bay, are palm-fringed sitting under lush cliffs. With extreme caution you can swim and snorkel from these beaches. About a half- hour walk over stones and boulders will take you to pretty Wai’akalua Beach which provides a very memorable location for a secluded picnic even though there are houses in the vicinity.

posted by arno @ 10:31 AM