perfectdaysinkauai

PERFECT DAYS - WEST KAUA’I

Highlights

Sunniest and Driest Shore. Trade winds dump huge amounts of rain on the north side of Mount Wai’ale'ale which results in the West Shore being the sunniest and driest of Kaua’i’s shores with near perfect weather along the 17-mile beach from Waimea to Polihale Beach.

On the West Shore Hawaii’s only salt ponds are still in production at Salt Pond Beach just outside of Hanapepe. This curved reddish-gold beach, rarely visited by tourists and loved by locals, offers a protected reef, tide pools and safe swimming, even for children.

The south swells of Kehaka Beach in summer and heavy winter surf attract a few local surfers year-round. Majors Beach (not safe for snorkeling) requires a day permit from the Pacific Missile Range Facility (PMRF). Guards at the main PMRF gate direct you to the office to get permits for several recreational areas. Polihale State Park, including Barking Sands Beach, is the longest beach on Kaua’i.

Kalaheo. Between Kalaheo and Hanapepe, the main sightseeing attractions consist of Hanapepe Lookout’s views down lush Hanapepe Valley (somewhat blocked by sugar cane) and the endless acres of Kaua’i Coffee and Kaua’i Coffee Museum.

Meals. A couple of excellent restaurants and lots of really good values in vacation rentals make Kalaheo a hidden gem for accommodations and dining. The Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co. opens early and serves some of the best breakfasts, lunches and dinners in this part of the island. Kalaheo Steak House is one of the best dining spots on the island. Camp House Grill has a huge menu for every meal of the day, including pretty good pies. Brick Oven Pizza and Pomodoro take care of take-out and really tasty lunches.

Hanapepe. Unlike anyplace else on Kaua’i, funky Hanapepe spawned an artists’ colony more than a decade ago and its been growing ever since into the island’s largest collection of art galleries. Hanapepe takes advantage of the fact that most people visiting Kaua’i sooner or later travel out Hwy. 50 to Waimea Canyon and have to pass Hanapepe. Started by Chinese rice farmers in the late 1880’s, the town nestled in Hanapepe Valley next to the Hanapepe River reminds one of the Australian outback. Perhaps that’s why the town was used for filming of The Thorn Birds, an Aussie classic. The horseshoe-shaped downtown of Hanapepe was really slammed by Hurricane Iniki in 1992 and had to rebuild itself without ruining its charm. Hanapepe Café serves a vegetarian menu Tu.-Sat. for lunch and now serves delicious, gourmet dinners on Friday night. Friday night the town comes alive with Art Night (5-9pm). Nearby Ele’ele Shopping Center has two restaurants: Toi’s Thai Kitchen, that does a really good job with a huge dinner (only) menu of classic Thai dishes, and Grinds Café and Espresso good for early breakfasts and light fare all day.

Port Allen. With both a large and a small boat harbor, Port Allen is the starting point for many different kinds of day and evening cruises and also kayak trips from Hanapepe Bay up the Hanapepe River and around Na Pali coast.

Waimea. Hwy. 50 runs through the center of Waimea and everything of interest in the town is along the highway. Waimea Town’s most interesting attraction is the so-called Menehune Ditch (Kiki a Ola), remnant of an ancient stone aqueduct built without using mortar by a group of Hawai’i’s earliest inhabitants, from the Marquesas Islands, who arrived about 300 A.D. The ruins of Fort Elizabeth, built by a scheming German-born entrepreneur, stands on a headland overlooking the harbor where a monument in Hofgaard Park commemorates Captain Cook’s landing in January 1778. In all likelihood, going to the movies was not part of your vacation plan on Kaua’i, but the Waimea Theater has a big screen, modern sound system and cozy charm.

Kekaha. The westernmost town in the United States sees a great many busloads of tourists on their way up and down Koke’e State Park, but few ever stop to see glistening white Kekaha Beach Park that runs 15 miles to Polihale. Rip currents populate the beautiful looking water, making it too treacherous to swim or snorkel.

Waimea Canyon – Koke’e State Park. For most visitors, “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” Waimea Canyon, is the main attraction in West Kaua’i. About 10 miles long and almost 4,000 feet deep, a network of trails lead into the Canyon, along its rim and ridges, and into its forests and Koke’e State Park. Koke’e is the place to see the rarest birds on the island and in Hawai’i.

A series of ridges and valleys reach out from Koke’e State Park to form the Na Pali extending from Ke’e on the North Shore to Polihale State Park at the end of the West Shore. The ridges along Na Pali run parallel to one another through Koke’e and end at bluffs about 1500’ above the shoreline. For driving tours, Na Pali lookouts at Kalalau Valley and Pu’uokila at road’s end are must destinations.

Several comparatively easy hikes lead to spectacular views (e.g., Canyon Trail) and beautiful waterfalls (e.g., Waipoo Falls). Hikers in reasonable condition and ready for strenuous hiking should consider hiking the Awa'awapuhi Trail and the Pihea Trail to awesome views and the Alakai Swamp Trail for glimpses of rare birds, plants and, if the clouds part, lovely views. The Pihea Trail from Pu’uokila Lookout through the Alakai Swamp on a boardwalk passes through what was once Hawai’i’s first volcano and ends at a viewpoint 4000’ down into the Wainiha River Valley and all the way to Hanalei Bay and the North Shore.

Kekaha to Majors Bay. Past Kekaha, the last town on the western shore, you’ll find Kekaha Beach Park (dangerous for surfing or swimming unless the water is very calm), and Kokole Point. Kekaha Beach blends into Major’s Bay and the Pacific Missile Range Facility (PNRF). Above Kekaha are sugar cane fields that send their cane to the huge sugar mill still operating in town. Major’s Beach runs from Kekaha to Polihale State Park at the foot of the Na Pali.

Operated by the U.S. Navy, the PNRF trains people for anti-submarine warfare and conducts missile tests. In the past the beach was usually open to the public on weekends and after 4pm weekdays, but with heightened security, it may be closed now. Barking Sands Beach is not worth the trip for barking sounds that might happen as you walk on the sand. Conditions need to be absolutely right to actually hear anything.

Polihale State Park. Lined with sand dunes (up to 100-feet high), vast Polihale Beach is the widest (some 300’ wide in summer) as well as the longest in Hawaii -- 17 miles of sand that starts at Kekaha Beach Park and runs through the PNFR, Major’s Bay, and Barking Sands in Polihale State Park. Take the right fork after you pass the missile range and follow Hwy. 50 to where it ends near Polihale State Park. From here the Park is accessible only by a dirt road through sugar cane fields. Queens Pond is not easy to find on the beach. Formed by a crescent-shaped reef, it offers a large, oval, safe swimming area (unless it’s dried out).

Some of the best ways to see the Polihale shoreline are: a 16-mile guided or unguided (if you’re qualified) kayak trip (June through August) from Ke’e Beach (enter) on the North Shore to Polihale (exit); and also a power catamaran trip from Port Allen that includes offshore snorkeling.

Checklist of Attractions

Alakai Swamp Trail – follows a boardwalk through Alakai Swamp, the remains of the volcanic caldera that formed Kaua’i
Awa‘awapuhi Trail – a 3.25-mile trail that joins the Nualolo Cliff Trail and offers spectacular viewpoints
Barking Sands Beach – the Pacific Missile Testing Facility, largely Major’s Beach between Kekaha and Polihale
Captain Cook Monument – commemorates Capt. Cook’s arrival on Kaua’i in January 1778
‘Ele’ele Shopping Center - off Hwy. 50 near Hanapepe and Port Allen includes convenience stores and a couple of local restaurants
Fort Elizabeth – the remains of a Russian Fort built in 1816 by a German immigrant, George Scheffer
Hanapepe River – scenic for kayakers and mountain bikers as it curves inland from the river mouth at the bay
Hanapepe Town – a charming, somewhat dilapidated old (non-plantation) town that has attracted artist galleries and gift shops
Hanapepe Valley Lookout – a peaceful vista of the valley that was the scene of Kaua’i’s bloodiest battle
Kaua’i Coffee Museum – coffee exhibits located on Hwy. 540 surrounded by coffee cultivation by Kaua’i Coffee
Kekaha – a former plantation town and the last town on the West Shore
Kekaha Beach – a long, pretty beach better for walking than snorkeling, although snorkeling is possible, with caution, when conditions are very calm
Kalaheo – a small town between Koloa and Hanapepe with several good restaurants and vacation rentals
Kikiaola State Boat Harbor – at the end of Waimea Beach, about a mile from Waimea Pier
Koke’e State Park – numerous interconnecting trails above Waimea Canyon for hikers and cycling lead through forests to great viewpoints like the Kalalau Lookout and the Pu’u o Kila Lookout, waterfalls and rare finds for birdwatchers and botanists
Koke’e Museum – nature displays and a 3-dimensional map of Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park
Major’s Beach – miles of good walking between Kekaha and Polihale State Park that draws experienced surfers year-round
Menehune Ditch – a stone-lined irrigation ditch built at least 1000 years ago by the earliest settlers on the island to bring water from the Waimea River to local taro fields
Na Pali Ridge Roads and Trails – hiking and biking trails that run from Waimea Canyon Drive and along Na Pali ridges to sea level
Nu’alolo Trail – 7+ miles hike to the Nu’alolo Cliff Trail and Lolo Vista Point above the Na Pali Coast
Pacific Missile Range Facility – operated by the U.S. Navy for occasional missile tests and offshore submarine exercises
Pakala Beach – popular with locals for surfing
Pihea Trail – trail from Pu’u o Kila Lookout along the edge of Kalalau Valley to the Alaka’i Swamp Trail
Polihale State Park – a very long beach lined with hundred-foot tall sand dunes at the western end of Hwy. 50 that includes Barking Sands Beach and Queens Pond formed by a crescent-shaped reef
Port Allen – cruise, sportfishing, whalewatching and other boats leave from here to sail and kayak around Na Pali, towards Po’ipu or to Lana’i
Salt Pond Beach Park – a wide, sandy, protected beach that is excellent for snorkeling and other watersports
Waimea Canyon – the spectacular gorge, 10-miles long, 1-mile wide and 3,600’ deep reached by Waimea Canyon Road and numerous hiking trails
Waimea Town – a quiet, friendly town occupied mainly by Hawaiians and other locals living in modest homes
Waipo’o Falls – two falls surrounded by beautiful scenery reached from the Canyon Trail

Perfect Days #32 - #36

Perfect Day #32 - Po’ipu to Hanapepe & Port Allen

Combine cruising, kayaking, sportfishing or whalewatching out of Port Allen with a morning or afternoon at Kuku’iolono Park, sightseeing and art gallery touring in Hanapepe, and breakfast, lunch and dinner in Kalaheo, Hanapepe or Waimea. As an option, snorkel in the morning at Salt Pond Beach Park and then hike, mountain bike or kayak inland along the Hanapepe River through lush agricultural lands. Art lovers should spend a few leisurely hours strolling around Hanapepe’s many galleries and shops with a break for lunch at the Hanapepe Café.

Kalaheo. Take Koloa Road through Lawa’i Valley back to Hwy. 50 where, at the junction with Hwy. 530, stop at the Hawai’i Trading Post that specializes in Tahitian black pearls and the highest quality Ni’ihau shell necklaces. It’s only two miles from Koloa to Kalaheo, a really good place for breakfast (and lunch). After breakfast, take the turnoff to Kuku’iolono Park to enjoy its great views and lovely Japanese and Hawaiian Gardens.

Kuku’iolono Park and golf course. From Lawa’i continue on Hwy. 50 to Kalaheo, turn left at Papalina road and drive about a mile to Pu’u Road. Enter Kuku’iolono Park (“Lono’s Light”), once the site of several heiaus and later part of the estate of sugar magnate Walter McBryde. In 1919 McBryde donated his 9-hole golf course and the land that became a park. McBryde is buried near the 8th hole, in the middle of a Japanese garden that he created.

The beautiful Japanese garden is part of an almost mile-long nature loop that includes a lava rock garden with a stone footbridge, sculptures, bonsai trees and fountains, ironwood and eucalyptus trees, plus a profusion of flowers. The gardens and adjoining golf course have an abundance of chickens freely roaming around. The golf course even sells chicken feed. At $8 per day with a power cart, it’s hard to complain about the feathered company. From a pavilion in the park there’s a sweeping view of south and west Kaua’i coasts, Ni’ihau Island, and the Lawa’i Valley.

Hanapepe Lookout. A few miles further, stop at mile marker #14 for the view from Hanapepe Overlook up lush Hanapepe Valley. The valley housed a large Hawaiian community before Humehume, son of the island’s King Kaumualii, led his father’s forces into Kaua’i’s last disastrous battle against Kamehameha’s troops.

Kaua’i Coffee Museum. Hwy. 540, Halewili Road, the 4-mile long “Coffee Highway” with a Kaua’i Coffee Visitors Center and Museum, cuts through a 4000-acre coffee plantation that has replaced McBryde’s sugar plantation. Kaua’i now surpasses the Big Island’s Kona as the largest coffee grower in Hawai’i. Turn on Hwy. 540 to the Kaua’i Coffee Museum where you can learn everything about coffee from growing to roasting (open 9-5pm, admission free).

Salt Pond Beach. From Hwy. 50, turn left on Hwy. 543 (Lolokai Rd.) to Lele Rd. and continue on Lolokai Rd. to Salt Pond Beach Park. Since ancient times and to this day, salt has been extracted from seawater in ponds that today are next to the Park. The Park includes a large saltwater lagoon edged by a crescent of sand and palms. Protected by a reef, swimming is safe in the lagoon.

Port Allen. Burns Field is the departure point for flightseeing and helicopter trips to Ni’ihau. Just around the bend and across the bay from the airstrip is Port Allen, shipping center for the west side of the island and home base for power catamaran, sportfishing, zodiac (rigid hull and rubber raft), whalewatching, sailing yacht, kayak and other excursions. (see http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/activities_kauai.html)

Cruises. Join the fun on a rigid hull inflatable or watch the sun go down for several hours over Na Pali on a 60’ catamaran while munching pupus and sipping mai tais. (See http://www.tombarefoot.com/kauai/sunset_cruises_kauai.html)

Hanapepe. From the direction of Kalaheo, on Hwy. 50 about a half-mile past mile marker 16, opposite the Ele’ele Shopping Center, turn right on Hanapepe Rd. to Hanapepe (“The Biggest Little Town on Kaua’i”) to visit galleries and shops, and walk across the Swinging Bridge. Founded in the mid-1880s by Chinese rice farmers, the quiet, backwater feel to Hanapepe belies its violent and wild history. Hanapepe continues to be a farming community that supplies Kaua’i with a large part of its produce. Farmers growing taro in Hanapepe Valley now supply Taro Ko Chips. Cooked in town, taro chips are sold through vendors around the island.

Artist’s Community. Both rundown and charming, Hanapepe has been growing as an artist’s community for more than a decade. James Hoyle, one of the best known of Kaua’i’s artists, has had his gallery in Hanapepe from the start. The Kim Starr Gallery shows oil paintings, pastels, and limited edition graphics of an artist that had her first gallery in Holualoa above Kailua-Kona on the Big Island. These and other artists in town and gallery owners sponsor a Friday Night Art Walk from 6-9 pm along Hanapepe Road. The town is lit up and the atmosphere becomes festive.

Hanapepe Galleries. Nine of the 12 galleries in Hanapepe are artist-owned. Galleries in Hanapepe include:

Bells Gallery & Custom Framing (335-0550)
Arius Hopman (335-0550)
Artsphere Candleshop & Gallery (335-5336)
Dawn Traina (335-3993)
Giorgio’s Gallery (335-3949)
Isa Maria - Hanapepe Art Center (335-3442)
James Hoyle Gallery (335-3582)
Kamaaina Cabinets/Koa Wood Gallery (335-5483)
Kaua’i Fine Arts (335-3778)
Kaua’i Village Gallery (335-0343)
Kim Starr Gallery (335-0381)
Lele Aka Studio Gallery (335-5267)
Shanning Cierras Gallery (335-3223) Time-Space Gallery (335-0094)

Hiking, biking and kayaking. For hikers and mountain bikers, several choices of trails run along the Hanapepe River and on Awawa Road on the Waimea side of the River. From Hanapepe Bay, the River travels inland less than two miles through lush agricultural lands and between canyon walls. To get to the river mouth, across the river towards Waimea take an immediate left on Puolo Rd. until you’re across from the swimming beach in Port Allen. Park and carry your kayak a short distance to the River with the option of paddling around Hanapepe Bay.

Perfect Days #33 -#36 Watersports, Waimea, Waimea Canyon & Koke’e State Park

Snorkel at Salt Pond Beach, surf at Pakala’s Beaches, explore historic Waimea, and spend one or more days driving to scenic viewpoints and hiking the trails of Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park.

Fit cyclists and hikers can head for the Kukui Trails, Haele’ele Ridge, Polihale Ridge, Kaaweiki and Kauhao ridges, Halemanu Valley Trails and Halemanu Road, Makaha Ridge Road, Miloli’i Ridge, various Koke’e Trails and, just for hiking, Awa’awapuhi Trail and trails to Pihea Overlook, Alakai Swamp and the Kilohana Overlook.

Salt Pond Beach. This protected beach is not frequented by many tourists, partly because it’s not one of the prettiest on the island. But Salt Pond is one of the safest and easiest for places for beginners to snorkel and find a variety of large fish near shore. You’ll find plenty of parking, showers and restrooms. From Hwy. 50 and mile marker 17, turn left on Lele Rd. and right at Lokokai Rd. to parking and the park.

Pakala Beaches. Before entering Waimea, surfers (experienced and very good ones only) should look for Pakala’s long-breaking waves. Pakala’s beaches can be reached from the Hwy. 50 bridge over Aakuku’i Stream at mile marker 21. A path runs along the stream to Pakala Beach (also called Aakuku’i Beach or Infinities).

Waimea. At mile-marker 22 on Hwy. 50, turn off to the Russian Fort Elizabeth Historical Park. From the parking lot a trail leads to a map and history exhibit about the remains of the Russian fort built in 1816 by George Scheffer. A 1-mile loop trail leads around the site at the mouth of the Waimea River. Scheffer, a German doctor working for a Russian company, tricked Kaua’i’s King Kaumuali into believing that he could bring Russian support to help the king restore his power. Discovered, Scheffer fled Kaua’i to Oahu and then to Brazil.

Menehune Ditch. Before entering Waimea, after crossing the Waimea River Bridge take your first right on Menehune Rd. and drive 1½ miles up Waimea Valley to the Menehune Ditch. This irrigation ditch was created pre-early Hawaiians to bring water from the Waimea River to taro fields. Today only 50 feet of the ditch is visible. Stones to build the ditch somehow were moved six miles and cut by the first inhabitants of Hawai’i who probably came from the Marquesas Islands around 300 A.D., 700 years before Tahitians arrived.

Historic Waimea. Continue to historic Waimea Town. The best place to start seeing historic Waimea is at the mouth of the river at Lucy Wright Beach Park. The first Europeans landed here in 1778 when Captain James Cook arrived, commemorated by the Captain Cook Monument. Waimea Beach is lined with plantation cottages, fishing boats and canoes. At the end of the beach is Waimea Plantation Cottages and, at the end of the town, Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor.

On Tues., Thurs. or Sat. at 9am join the 90-minute walking tour of the Old Waimea Sugar Plantation. This tour takes you back in time to the late 19th century and early 20th century era of growing and processing sugar in Waimea, including a visit to the Waimea Plantation Cottages, a vacation resort of restored plantation cottages.

Waimea Canyon. For most visitors the main attractions to the west of Waimea are the drive and hiking trails up Waimea Canyon Road to Kalalau Lookout and Pu’u o Kila Lookout over Kalalau Valley , and trails in Koke’e State Park. Book well in advance to be able to spend several days at Koke’e Lodge for hiking and walking around Koke’e State Park and Waimea Canyon trails.

Before leaving for Waimea Canyon, stop at the Waimea Deli and Bakery for breakfast and a mahi-mahi, ahi or deli sandwich to take with you or Ishihara Market for almost any kind of sandwich and plate lunch. You’ll be happy to know that Jo-Jo’s Shave Ice probably will be open when you return from hiking in Koke’e State Park, ready with 60 varieties of arguably the best shave ice on the island.

Drive to lookouts at Kuku’i Trailhead and Iliau Nature Loop (mile-marker 7), Waimea Canyon Lookout (mile-marker 10), Pu’u Hinahina Lookout (mile-marker 13) and on Makaha Ridge Road. Enter Koke’e State Park, visit the Koke’e Natural History Museum and its gift shop, possibly hike on nearby trails, and drive to the Kalalau Lookout and Pu’u o Kila Lookout. Any one of these lookouts would be an excellent place for a picnic lunch. One of the easiest to reach, with spectacular Na Pali Coast views, is Puu o Kila. Drive past the Kalalau Lookout to the end of the road. Park and walk up the trail to Puu o Kila lookout.

Down from Koke’e. At the end of the day, drive down Hwy. 550 and Hwy. 552 to Hwy. 50 in Kekaha, turn right and drive past the Kekaha sugar mill, along Kekaha Beach, past Major’s Bay and the Pacific Missile Range Facility to the beach at Polihale State Park. The Park is a great place to end the day watching the sunset over Ni’ihau.

Perfect Days in Waimea Canyon & Koke’e State Park

Avid hikers in reasonably good condition will want to spend several more days on the trails in Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park. One day take the main route to Waimea Canyon, Koke’e Road (Hwy. 552), which makes a steep climb from Kekaha. Another day take the other, more scenic but narrower route, Waimea Canyon Drive (Hwy. 550), which starts near the edge of Waimea. Take Hwy. 550 up and Hwy 552 down for different views.

A few miles up, the roads converge and then continue a steep ascent to Koke’e State Park and then, 4 miles beyond, Kalalau Lookout. Before starting up the Canyon, be sure to check your gas gauge. There are no gas stations on your 40-mile round-trip to the top. Prepare for a 10-20 degree temperature drop at the 4,000-foot elevation.

Koke’e State Park Hiking Trails. At the north end of Waimea Canyon, the 4,345-acre Koke’e State Park is a different world of vegetation than at sea level. This wilderness park is full of rich vegetation, fruit, evergreens and ferns, flowers and colorful birds. A 45-mile network of trails takes hikers to some of the most remote and beautiful spots on Kaua’i.

Koke’e Lodge & Museum. Many of these hiking trails start near Koke’e Natural History Museum (335-9975, daily 10am-4pm) and Koke’e Lodge, just past the 15 mile marker. Koke’e Lodge also serves breakfast and lunch (specialty – chili and cornbread). The Lodge’s twelve rustic cabins have wood-burning stoves. Reservations need to be made months in advance for these popular accommodations, especially on weekends. (Single cabins are $45 per night, 5 night limit. You’re on your own for dinner.)

Visit the Museum to see its three-dimensional map of the Canyon and prepare yourself for hiking trails overlooking the Canyon and elsewhere in Koke’e State Park. Opposite the Lodge, with a 4WD vehicle you can drive for miles on Waineke Rd. to Mohihi Rd. or hike on these and other trails described below: Iliau Loop, Kuku’i Trail, Pu’u Ka Ohelo and Water Tank Trail, Pu’u Ka Ohelo and Berry Flat Loop, Halemanu Trail, Koke’e Trail, Kumuwela Trail, Cliff Trail, Canyon Trail and Black Pipe Loop, Nu’alolo Trail, and others.

Iliau Nature Loop. From the junction of Hwys. 520 and 550, it’s less than 2 miles to the trailhead for the Iliau Nature Loop and Kuku’i Trail. (At this point you’re 7 miles from Koke’e Lodge and Museum.) An easy start for viewing vistas of the Canyon, Iliau Nature Loop provides a short, self-guided path that includes a covered picnic area and some benches on the canyon’s edge. Across the gorge, you can see Wai’ale’ale Falls plunging off the cliffs.

Kuku’i Trail. Instead of returning to the starting point, you can descend on the Kuku’i Trail into Waimea Canyon to reach two spectacular viewpoints. Benches are located at each viewing point on the way down into the Canyon. It’s a 2-mile round-trip on this first leg of the Kuku’i Trail. If you’re energetic enough to descend to the base of Waimea Canyon, the Trail zigzags down another 2,000 feet to the Canyon floor and ends at the Waimea River Trail and Wiliwili Camp, a campsite with a covered shelter and a table. Without a lot of dawdling on this 5-mile hike, you can cover it in about 3 hours.

Cliff, Canyon and Black Pipe Trails. From the junction of Hwys. 520 and 550, drive about 7½ miles to Halemanu Road on the right (between mile markers 14 and 15). Parking for the Cliff, Canyon and Black Pipe trailheads is located on both sides of the road. You’re only about 1¼ miles below Koke’e Lodge. Hike down the unpaved road and cross over Halemanu Stream.

Hike up the Cliff Trail to a great viewpoint for Waimea Canyon, backtrack to the junction with the Canyon Trail, turn right and follow this trail to Upper and Lower Waipoo Falls. To the right, you’ll find tempting soaking pools beneath Lower Waipoo Falls. Backtrack past Canyon Trail and follow Koke’e Stream to Upper Waipoo Falls. The Black Pipe Loop begins at Canyon Trail and becomes a footpath that offers great views of Waimea Canyon as it returns to Cliff Trail and Halemanu Road.

Halemanu Trail. Instead of turning left on Halemanu Road, turn right towards Halemanu Trail and it’s a little over a mile on a well-groomed trail popular with bird-watchers (Halemanu means “bird house”) to Mohihi Road near the old ranger station. Halemanu Trail passes through a beautiful forest with blackberry bushes and passion flowers that make it popular with both birds and hikers.

More Trails off Koke’e Road. Mohihi Road, across from the Koke’e Campground, starts at Koke’e Road and winds through a lush forest, across several streams to the Pu’u Ka Ohelo Trail or, further on, the Berry Flat Trail, both of which join the Water Tank Trail back to Koke’e Road. The Berry Flat Loop connecting these trails winds through dense tropical growth, sugi pine groves and huge redwoods, koa, eucalyptus trees, guava trees, and other plants and vines.

Kumuwela Trail and Viewpoint. From Lower or Upper Waipoo Falls, return to Canyon Trail and either backtrack until you reach the turnoff to Black Pipe Trail or continue east of Canyon Trail to Kumuwela Viewpoint. From here you can follow Kumuwela Trail along a gulch filled with trees, vines, flowers and other tropical plants and ferns all the way to Kumuwela Road that comes out on Koke’e Road just above Koke’e Museum and Lodge. This is a great hike from the Lodge itself, entering at Kumuwela Road.

Nu’alolo Trail, Nu’alolo Cliffs Trail and Awa-’awapuhi Trail. Just a short way down Koke’e Road from Koke’e Lodge, Nu’alolo Trail descends through lush forest to vistas of the Na Pali Coast. After about 3½ miles, the trail ends at Lolo Vista Point, 3000 feet above the cliffs of Nu’alolo Valley. Backtrack to the Nu’alolo Cliffs Trail, a 2.2-mile connector trail following the rim of Nu’alolo Valley to Awa-’awapuhi Trail, revealing spectacular views of the Na Pali coast. At the end of the Awa-’awapuhi Trail, an overlook provides more panoramic views from a perch on the ridge dividing Awa-’awapuhi and Nu’alolo Valleys. The entire loop covers nine miles. Take your time. It’s well worth it.

Kalalau Lookout, Pu’u o Kila Lookout and Pihea Trail. At the 18 mile marker on Koke’e Road, Kalalau Lookout on the cliff’s edge reveals fantastic views down Kalalau Valley. For another, even better view of Kalalau Valley, continue to Pu’u o Kila Lookout. From this Lookout, with some of the grandest views in Hawai’i or anywhere, follow the edge of the cliffs downhill on Pihea Trail (which tends to be slippery) along the rim of Kalalau Valley.

Alaka’i Swamp. After about a mile, the path reaches Pihea Peak and a short spur trail to the vista. To the southeast the trail leads over boardwalks to Alaka’i Swamp at the foot of Mount Wai’ale’ale and the Alaka’i Swamp Trail. Heading to the right on Alaka’i Swamp Trail leads downhill several miles to Mohihi Road.

posted by arno @ 2:48 PM